When it comes to marketing your business, how do you feel? Is marketing like a dreaded chore, the one you put off? Is marketing something you’d love to do but find yourself thinking, “That’s the work I’ll do when I’m not staining.” Maybe you find it fascinating and understand the value of great marketing, but simply don’t know how in the world to get started? Regardless of what camp you fall into, these five proven marketing strategies will help boost your log home business.
So you’re ready to stain your new log cabin, or perhaps you’re looking to completely restore one you just bought. Maybe you just need some routine maintenance done, and you’re definitely in DIFM mode. (That’s “Do It For Me.”) How do you find a good log home finishing contractor to help? Sashco partnered with Log Home Living and Cabin Living magazines to bring you…
You’ve been livin’ the log home dream, enjoying your log cabin getaway, and definitely not thinking much about maintaining your log home stain. Then, a couple years in, you notice that the Capture® and Cascade® you used to stain your log home has lost a bit of its original lustre. Besides lost lustre, what else should you look for?
No, your new caulk won’t stick to silicone caulk. Sorry to be so abrupt, but it’s the truth. You can stop reading now if you don’t want all of the details and the whys. Here at Sashco, we love the “whys,” so we’re trudging ahead.Nothing sticks to silicone – not paint, not new caulking products. Not even silicone will stick to itself.
Fact is: nothing will stick to silicone – not even silicone. For the average person who needs to re-caulk their windows, bathtub, or anything else around the house, failed silicone means starting over from the very beginning.
Why won’t your new caulk stick to silicone?
You see, silicone has oils in it. These oils are introverts. They don’t like crowds. When silicone is first applied, these oils are all together in one happy bead of caulk. It’s quite the crowd! Over time, their introverted nature kicks in and they have to exit the crowd. Those oils migrate out of the original silicone bead to find some open space. They might migrate into whatever porous surface is nearby, or they’ll just hang out in their own happy little space on the surface of the original bead. (Perhaps there’s a happy little tree there, too.)
In the meantime, nothing else is allowed into their space. They’re quite stubborn about it. Their space is for them only, so no new sealants – no matter the kind! – will stick.
What can you do if you need to re-caulk and silicone is present?
You have two options:
Use a silicone caulk remover to remove all silicone before applying new caulk. Completely remove the silicone.
Apply the new caulk over top, making sure the new caulk bead is wider and outside of the silicone caulk, sticking to a clean, silicone-free surface.
Use a silicone remover, readily available at hardware stores, to get rid of all traces of silicone. We like McKanica Silicone Caulk Remover.
Thoroughly clean the surface with rubbing alcohol to make sure there is no silicone residue left.
Once any silicone is removed, you can apply new caulk. Reapply caulk. (Psst…Sashco’s products would be great for your re-caulking project!)
Option 2: Apply a wider bead of caulk
Clean the surface of the silicone bead, as well as surrounding areas, with rubbing alcohol to remove as much oil as possible.
Test a small area with the wider bead of caulk. Make sure no silicone oil molecules are still residing where the new bead needs to stick.
If the test turns out OK, apply the new caulk, making sure it’s sticking to clean surfaces on either side of the silicone.
Cross your fingers and hope that the oils don’t decide to become a menace and hurt the new sealant adhesion in the future. If that doesn’t work, revert to Option 1.
For future consideration
Silicone has its place in the world. It’s great for applications where there are extreme temperatures. (They love it in Antarctica!) But for most areas around the home, it’s not ideal. Instead, choose a high-performance sealant (like Sashco’s) with excellent elasticity and adhesion to a variety of surfaces. Then, make sure that product will stick to itself, in case you have to do repairs down the road. All of Sashco’s sealants will stick to themselves, making any (unlikely) future repairs or retrofits much easier.
Need some more info? Here are some other resources:
No, your new caulk won’t stick to silicone caulk. Sorry to be so abrupt, but it’s the truth. You can stop reading now if you don’t want all of the details and the whys. Here at Sashco, we love the “whys,” so we’re trudging ahead.
We’ve got all the caulk geek answers you could ever hope for on how water-based caulks and sealants dry (aka cure).
Rain and humidity and my caulk won’t dry – oh my!
The United States experienced the wettest May on record in 2015. All of that rain was great for flowers, trees, and weeds. For some, it created another problem: caulking that took a lot longer than normal to dry. Why? Keep reading!
How do water-based caulking and sealants dry (aka cure)?
The short answer is: by evaporation. (Here is a quick trip back to elementary science for a great explanation.)
The combination of wet weather and the accompanying cooler temperatures creates an abundance of water vapor (humidity) in the air. Higher humidity means moisture can’t evaporate as quickly, and frizzy hair and mushrooms thrive!
This means that water-based caulking and sealants don’t cure as quickly, either.
Keep in mind, most manufacturers give instructions based on ideal temperatures and humidity (70⁰F and 30% or lower relative humidity.) When these ideals are out of whack, cure times will change.
That quick-dry 30 minute caulk may now take a few hours to cure. In addition, with all caulking products, the larger the joint that is filled, the longer the product will take to dry. That 1” wide crack in your concrete sidewalk may take up to 2 weeks to dry under ideal conditions. In humid conditions, it may take up to a month or more. And don’t forget – surfaces that hold moisture (like concrete that has gotten wet from rain or sprinklers) will add to that!
So, does this mean you shouldn’t caulk anything right now?
Keep caulking! It’s important to keep moisture and insects where they belong – outside.
Absolutely not! It’s important to keep all of that moisture out. It does mean taking some extra precautions to protect the caulking during the early stages of drying. For instance:
• Cover it: Put some plywood over that sidewalk crack for the first 2-4 days to protect it from direct rain. Or, put some plastic sheeting over the window you just caulked to protect it.
• Then, uncover it: When it’s sunny and warm, let the sunshine in! The warmth will help the caulking cure, even in humid conditions.
• Don’t touch: Keep fingers, toes, and tools out of fresh caulking for the first 24-48 hours after application to allow that initial drying process to happen. Even after that, the sealant may remain soft and somewhat tacky for a while.
• Bring out the fans: To speed up the drying process, point a fan or two directly on the sealant.
• Don’t worry: Though it may be soft and tacky for a while, the caulk will still hold its seal to keep out rain.
It’s also a perfect opportunity to practice patience.
You know that saying, “A watched pot never boils?” Well, a watched caulk bead will never cure. As long as the caulk is holding back that moisture, no watching is necessary.
Tips To Help you try our stain samples on your home
Your dream log home isn’t that far off.
Proper application of log home stain samples is the only way to make sure you get the color you want the first time. Case in point, this beautiful log home stained with Sashco’s Transformation Log & Timber stain. Shopping from a log stain color chart is a bit like shopping from a catalog. What if it doesn’t look like the picture? Can I return it if I don’t like it?
The Type of Wood Matters
With log home stains, the same stain can look vastly different on various species and ages of wood. Most likely, the color chart you used showed stain that was applied to new white pine. But, when applied to 50-year-old oak, the stain looks completely different.
Take a look at Images A, B, and C below. Would you believe that each image shows the same color of stain? All three pieces of wood are stained with Sashco’s Transformation Siding & Trim in Brown Tone Medium. The only difference is the wood: Image A is Redwood, Image B is Pressure Treated Wood, and Image C is Pine.
A – Redwood
B – Pressure Treated
C – Pine
The Wood Prep Method Also Plays a Role
Not only does the type of wood affect how the stain will appear, but different preparation and application methods will also affect the final result. Power-washed logs, hand-sanded logs, and media blasted logs will all soak up the stain differently.
Different wood prep types affect the final stain color.
The image below illustrates how wood prep affects the final stain. From the top:
Media blasted logs (no finish sanding)
Media blasted logs, finish sanded with Buffy Pads
Power washed logs, finish sanded with Osborn® brushes
Power washed logs (no finish sanding)
So, we’re shouting it from the rafters: put the paint brush down and sample first!
Here’s How to Apply Stain Samples the Right Way
1. Pick a spot on your home
Listen up: a scrap of wood won’t do. Your home’s unique texture and color will affect the final outcome, so do this sample on the home itself. In a small, inconspicuous test area, perform each step the way you will on the entire home. We recommend a space that is, at a minimum, 2 sq.ft. This way, you get a good idea of what the stain will look like on the whole home.
2. Prepare the wood
Do you plan to power wash? Power wash your sample area. Do you plan to media blast? Media blast your sample area. (Yes, it’s extra work, but it will be worth it when the sample and the home turn out the same.)
3. Mix the pre-stain base coat and stain samples thoroughly
Sorry, folks, but a stir stick just won’t do the trick. There are many ingredients in a semi-transparent stain that tend to sink to the bottom of the container, including the pigments. It’s important to scrape all of those pigments off of the bottom and thoroughly mix them in to see the true color. It might be helpful to pour the sample into a spare container (metal or glass for Transformation Log and Timber samples; plastic, metal, or glass for CaptureLog Stain and Transformation Siding and Trim), scrape all of the pigments in, and mix away for a few minutes. A kitchen whisk or hand-held mixer is a great tool for mixing.
If you plan on using Colorfast under your stain, apply one coat and allow to thoroughly dry. Colorfast will affect the final color appearance, so it needs to be sampled just like the stain.
5. Apply the first coat of stain
When applying your stain, make sure whatever method you use is the same method you use when you do the actual project. We recommend spraying on and back-brushing all of Sashco’s stains. If you’re brushing on the stain, don’t skimp! Really drench wood with stain when applying.
6. Apply the second coat of stain
After the first coat dries thoroughly, apply the second coat of stain. Follow directions for the product you’re using. Usually, the second coat is a lighter coat designed to even out color and gloss.
7. Let the stain dry
Did we already say this? We’ll say it again. Allow all coats to dry in between. Wet-on-wet stain always looks different than dry stain, so it’s important to let stain fully dry between coats and after to allow the color to fully develop, penetrate, and show you the true color.
8. Don’t forget a top coat!
With Sashco’s Capture, you must use the Cascade clear top coat. The final look will be different with the top coat, so apply everything in order to get the real scoop.
Pro Tips
If you’re working with a contractor, he or she will likely do this sampling for you. Make sure you’re both on the same page when it comes to the final look you want to achieve. Don’t allow the contractor to stain until you have thoroughly discussed and demonstrated the look you want. This means it’s best if you can be on-site during the staining process (at least at the beginning).
Need help finding a log home finishing contractor? Good news, we have you covered! This is not another list of every contractor who has ever looked at a log home. This is a list of contractors who specialize in log home finishing and restoration.
So there you have it! You’re well on your way to making sure the beautiful, dream log home picture in your mind’s eye becomes reality.
For more staining tips (and FREE stain samples!) schedule a call with the experts at Sashco, or visit your local Sashco retailer.
At Sashco, we know that logs ain’t wood. So whether your’re finally building your dream home, looking to do some routine maintenance to keep your weekender log cabin looking beautiful, or in need of a complete log cabin renovation and restoration, we’re here to help with a full line of specialty log home finishing products.
Order Stain Samples
We make stain selection simple with curated colors and everything you need to create a log home you love, delivered.
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In addition to being ugly, splits and tears in caulking can also lead to costly damage and unnecessary headaches. Here are some examples of different types of substrate caulking failure so that we can better understand them.
Don’t compromise at the end of a long and arduous journey by using an inferior stain not designed for logs. Capture and Cascade deliver performance worthy of the journey that got you here.
Moves with your logs and timbers
Won't hide the wood grain
Easy clear coat maintenance with Cascade(R) exterior clear coat
Backer Materials that Seal Things Right the First Time Backer Rod, Grip Strip, and Log Gap Cap all help you create the ideal joint desing for a long-lasting, durable seal
Logs are in constant dynamic motion. That's why there's Log Builder®, the sealant made for log structures. Stretches up to 500% of original size, while still maintaining tenacious adhesion to the wood.
When other chinking pulls away, Log Jam holds its seal With Log Jam chinking, you can keep the cozy feel and rustic look of a log home without compromising comfort and performance.
Easy to Use - Hard to See Keep out weather, bugs, and moisture without seeing it. Conceal disappears into the woodwork so you don't know the wood starts and the caulk begins.
It's Music to the Eyes Symphony works in harmony with the unique character of your logs and wood to reflect an atmosphere or cozy warmth and elegance while creating and scuff-resistant and durable surface that's easy to dust.
Right Color. Right Quantity. Right Now. Never run out of stain at the jobsite again. Stock exactly what you need in your truck or trailer at the jobsite.
Easy to mix
The same color, durability, and application you've come to expect from Capture Log Stain and Transformation Log & Timber
Maintenance Made Easy Now that Capture® Log Stain is applied, it’s time for Cascade® Clear Topcoat to bring out the depth and character of your unique woodgrain while protecting it against moisture, mildew, and algae. Predictable and affordable routine maintenance with Cascade throughout the years means your home stays protected and beautiful. Easy!
Keep the Color the Color Colorfast delivers the ideal canvas for stain application and leaves behind the strong foundation necessary for long-lasting color. It’s color confidence for your log home.
Rot, weather, insects, fungi all pose a serious threat to your logs. Protect your investment—treat your logs first to make them last. Tim-bor® helps protect your home from the costly damage caused by rot and insect infestation.
Bugs don't stand a chance
Easy to mix and apply
Prevents decay fungi
Costs 5 times less than glycol-based borate products
Remove Wood Felting and Raised Grain Remove wood fuzz (called felting) after power washing or media blasting, and knock down excessive raised grain with Sashco's finish sanding tools
Clean and brighten bare logs and wood, remove surface dirt, pollen, and kill mold for maintenance, and keep your logs looking fresh with CPR Log Cleaner and Brightener
