Primary Menu

Prep Time

So now itโ€™s time to prepare your wood for staining. Substrate preparation is the most critical step in achieving stain longevity. As Kurt Denman of Benjamin Mooreยฎ stated in the February 2007 edition of Coatings World magazine, โ€œI cannot emphasize enough how critical proper preparation is to realize a successful staining project. Itโ€™s the ultimate determinant on how long the beauty of a job lasts.โ€ Properly preparing the wood from the get-go will save you both time and money down the road.

(more…)

Tips to Help You Choose a Log Home Stain Color You Love

Sampling log stain colors on your home is a key step to ensuring you’ll love the stain color you choose. But how do you know which type of log stain you need for your unique log home? We know the struggle is real, so we’ve simplified the stain selecting experience, including the way you sample log stain types and colors.

If your home is already stained, stain compatibility is a huge issue because not all stains are compatible with one another โ€” nor with all sealants. Thatโ€™s why itโ€™s important to select a stain that will be compatible with caulking and chinking. When you consider that an average 2,200 sq.ft. ranch-style log home has literally one mile of log joints, many of which will need to be sealed at some point in time, adhesion compatibility with the stain you use is critical.

There are three different types of stains available to you. Keep in mind that not all stains are created equal, and how deep a stain penetrates doesnโ€™t necessarily equate to better performance. The best value for your dollar may be in a more expensive stain that has been formulated for a specific type of application, i.e. decks, logs, wood siding, etc.

With all types, good prep is important to get maximum longevity. Sashco recommends going with a surface stain or a shallow penetrating stain, both of which afford your home the greatest protection and long-term performance. The three types of stains are discussed below.

  • OK to use on restoration projects when the previous stain contained no non-drying oils (keep reading for details)
  • Little, if any, penetration into the first layer of closed wood cells
  • Rely on adhesion and elasticity for performance
  • Good for use on most wood surfaces โ€” handrails and vertical surfaces
  • Should not be used on roofing shingles and does not perform well on decks
  • Quality brands (like ours) have good longevity
  • Best for use on restoration products where the previous stain is oil-based or unknown
  • Penetrates into wood about 1-3 cells deep
  • Good for use on vertical wood surfaces
  • Some brands are good on decks and fences
  • Should not be used on roofing shingles
  • Quality brands (like ours) have good longevity
  • Can be used on log homes, but won’t last long
  • Can penetrate as much as ยผโ€ or more into wood
  • Good for decks, hand-rails, and roofing materials
  • Not compatible with most other finishing products (sealants in particular)
  • Appearance is short-lived, even with frequent re-application

Your stain color sets the tone of your homeโ€”which why itโ€™s important to request samples and test several different stains and colors to ensure you get the color you want.

Sashco recommends that you stay away from clear stains. Why? In sun-drenched areas where only a clear stain is used, the woodโ€™s natural color will begin to darken after only a few months. While youโ€™re not alone in wanting to keep as natural a look as possible, clear coats that promise to preserve the โ€œjust builtโ€ look are misleading. Itโ€™s impossible to load enough UV absorbers in any clear stain to sufficiently protect your wood. And even though the stain may still be repelling water, dark yellow and gray discoloration of the wood is a sure sign that the UV absorbers have lost their effectiveness.

We recommend you stick with high-quality, UV-absorbing stains loaded with pigments โ€“ which is where you get the majority of your UV protection โ€“ and follow these sample testing procedures to make sure you get it right before you start.

Check out our Inspiration Gallery – where you can view our high-performance log stains, sealants, and chinking products on real log homes. You can view by stain type and color to get a feel for the endless possibilities. Create your dream home, order our log stain sample kit today!

Have more questions, call one of our log home gurus and they’ll be happy to answer any of your log home staining questions today. CALL NOW

At Sashco, we know that logs ain’t wood. So whether your’re finally building your dream home, looking to do some routine maintenance to keep your weekender log cabin looking beautiful, or in need of a complete log cabin renovation and restoration, we’re here to help with a full line of specialty log home finishing products.

Order Stain Samples

We make stain selection simple with curated colors and everything you need to create a log home you love, delivered.


Inspiration Gallery

Need help selecting the right log stain color for your dream home? Here’s a little inspiration.


Where to Buy

Find dealers near you and see which online retailers sell Sashco by visiting our Where to Buy page.


Find a Contractor

Need help finding a log home contractor? Visit our directory of pros who specialize in log home finishing and restoration.

Request A Free Stain Sample

Donโ€™t surrender your fate to an online color chart. Order your free stain samples today.

Overview

Technical Report | The Role of Coating Breathability in Preventing Rot in Log and Timber Structures

We’ve got all the answers to your questions about whether it’s better to paint or stain a log home.

Itโ€™s common knowledge that moisture trapped in wood will, over time, lead to rot. Because significant rot can lead to tens of thousands of dollars in repairs, itโ€™s imperative to use a coating (stain, paint, varnish, etc.) that will both prevent most moisture from getting into wood in the first place, and also provide an escape route for moisture that does get into the wood. Voices on the internet and elsewhere would tell you that this has more to do with the breathability of the coating itself. Breathability is important, because no matter how carefully built, properly stained, or well-maintained a structure is, some liquid water will eventually get past the outer defenses and into a building. But the breathability of a coating is not the primary factor in preventing rot. So, what is?

Inside

Effects of Water on Logs and Timbersย 

On any log or timber structure, liquid water from many sources โ€” dew, rain, runoff, backsplash, snow, ice, sprinklers, cleaning, etc. โ€” will get onto the surface of the wood. Once on the surface, that water will soak into the wood, unless a good stain or coating is there to block it. Bare wood, weathered wood, weathered or failing stains and coatings, joints, fasteners, insect holes, and โ€” perhaps especially โ€” unsealed cracks and checks are all excellent places for liquid water to get past the coating and into the wood. Once in the wood, the liquid water will naturally soak deeper into the wood.

As liquid water inside the wood evaporates, it expands dramatically. One teaspoon of water will expand about 1600 times to become approximately two gallons of water vapor! When that happens slowly, in cool weather or shaded areas, those forces arenโ€™t too destructive, as the vapor has plenty of time to find a way out of the wood without doing much damage. However, when the liquid water turns to vapor quickly and the escape paths are limited, damage can occur. This often happens when a dampened log is exposed to full sunlight. The increasing water vapor pressure underneath the coating will literally push the coating off the wood as it tries to escape, as shown in the photo above. The resulting damage to the adhesion of the coating is the beginning of the peeling process. The more breathable a coating is, the easier it can relieve this back pressure by allowing the water vapor to pass through it with minimal or no damage.

The most common way to address the problem of water is to apply a coating that forms a continuous film on the surface, keeping most of the water from getting in, while making sure that it is breathable enough so that water vapor can escape with minimal or no damage. The vast majority of wood stains on the market are intended to perform this way.

The first job of a coating: Keep Water OUT!

Shedding liquid water is the first line of defense against rot. Keeping the underlying wood dry simply makes sense. Disappointingly, most commercially available stains and coatings are simply too hard and brittle to do this effectively. Logs and timbers expand and contract and twist and crack with changes in temperature and humidity, and as they relieve internal stresses. A brittle, hard coating applied on top of this constantly-moving wood simply canโ€™t keep up with the movement. The result is cracks in the coating itself that usher water directly to the wood. Over time, this leads to cracks in the wood itself, as shown in the photo above, which allows even more moisture in. An elastic, or at the very least flexible, coating can move with the wood far better, maintaining a barrier to liquid water for much longer. Sashco makes Transformation Stainยฎ Log and Timber to be as flexible as an oil can be, and Captureยฎ Log Stain to be hyperelastic.ย ย 

The second job of a film forming stain: Let Water OUT!

You read that right: breathability is the second line of defense, but itโ€™s a bit more complicated than just the breathability of the stain itself. All of the following factors also affect the overall breathability of logs and timbers: wood species, density, texture, wood prep, any previous stains applied, cleaning chemicals or preservatives in the wood, penetration or non-penetration of the first coat, the amount or thickness of the stains or coatings, the number of coats applied, and more. In such complicated systems, we simply aim for minimal to no damage as the stain weathers.

Other Ways of Addressing the Problem of Water

The less common way of addressing the problem of water is to make a super-breathable stain or coating that vapor just passes right through. An eroding alkyd, an โ€œoil-in-waterโ€ system (often referred to as a โ€œhybridโ€ stain), quickly micro-fractures and ages into tiny flakes. Water soaks right into the wood, but also evaporates right back out just as easily. The micro flakes erode away instead of peeling. This type of stain needs to be reapplied every couple of years, but extensive prep is usually not necessary. Stains like these are ideal for decks and fences. Sashcoโ€™s Transformation Stainยฎ Siding and Trim falls into this category.

Another way to accomplish super-breathability is by using a non-drying oil as the main component of the stain. Unfortunately, these stains are incompatible with sealants and chinking, keeping these products from adhering to surfaces coated with these non-drying oils. Sealants that donโ€™t adhere are easy access points for moisture (as shown in the photo above). Every log home needs some sealing, at the very least around doors and windows. This is why Sashco and many other manufacturers stand firmly against using non-drying oils, as well as silicones and waxes, on log homes, all of which prevent sealants from adhering properly.

More to the Story

Proper staining counts! As we consider log and timber stains and coatings, one of the most overlooked places during a stain job is actually the inside of cracks and checks. Many people do a fantastic job of making the outside of logs and timbers look beautiful, while completely missing the inside of the cracks and checks. Leaving any crack or check that can hold water (like that in the photo below) unstained means there is a direct water path right into the wood, and that will cause rot, eventually. All cracks larger than
ยผ inch wide should be sealed with backer rod and an elastic sealant like Concealยฎ or Log Builderยฎ. Any crack smaller than ยผ inch wide andย  ยผ inch deep should be filled with stain. (Excess liquid stain can then be brushed out, but it is important to stain ALL the bare wood.)ย 

Another overlooked opportunity is vigorous back-brushing. We are not talking about spreading the stain out evenly, but literally pushing the liquid stains or coatings into the wood using block brushes on poles. This (exhausting but effective) work actually pushes the stain into places it wonโ€™t flow โ€” into the cells and the cell layers deeper down, forming mechanical stain-anchors deeper in the wood. Doing this really helps the stains resist the backpressure of the water vapor, making the stain job last much longer.

Proper maintenance counts, too! Eventually, even the best stains crack as the wood underneath checks and cracks. These cracks that develop should not be ignored, but instead should be treated fairly soon after they form so that the wood is sealed against water intrusion โ€” preferably before much damage occurs. On new construction, plan on a maintenance coat one or two years after building and staining is complete, just to handle the new checks and cracks that inevitably develop soon after construction. Performing maintenance on time can be the difference between a simple maintenance coat and a full restain job. In general, even the best stains used on logs will need to be maintained every three to five years.

Real-Life Examples of Water Vapor Pressure and Breathability

The back-pressure damage from expanding water vapor is most often seen on the upper curvatures of logs that get very hot in direct sunlight. You can see this damage on many log homes if you look for peeling โ€” especially along the edges of unsealed checks and cracks. In the picture below, you see a piece of red cedar that was stained with two different stains and left outside to weather. As 18 months went by, the wood cracked as it expanded and contracted, starting at the unstained middle strip where the unprotected wood started to crack very quickly. The cracks split the stains and allowed more liquid water into the wood. Note how the stains started to peel along the edges of the cracks where the back pressure from the water vapor was strongest.

Did you notice that one of the below stains was better than the other? Both were premium alkyd stains, but the one on the left was designed for general use. It is so hard and brittle that it canโ€™t handle the movement of the wood very well, so it cracks and peels a lot. On the right side is a much more flexible alkyd stain (an early version of Sashcoโ€™s Transformation Stainยฎ Log and Timber) that is able to move with the wood much better. As a result, the peeling damage from the cracking wood and water absorption/evaporation is much less pronounced.ย 

See For Yourself

The following panels show how differences in formulation (including elasticity) will perform when exposed to normal weathering.

Hard vs. Soft Oil Stains This exposure panel shows how a harder oil log stain (left) compares to the much softer, more flexible Transformation Stainยฎ Log and Timber (right) after 24 monthsโ€™ exposure. For oil-based stains, both are performing fairly well. Hard vs. Soft alkyd #2
Non-drying Oil vs. Flexible Drying Oil This panel shows a non-drying oil stain (left) vs. Transformation StainยฎLog and Timber (right) after 24 months exposure. Although the non-drying oils have superb breathability, they simply donโ€™t last, and as mentioned earlier, will keep sealants (and some future stains) from adhering properly.  Non-Drying vs Transformation
Eroding Alkyd Stains Letโ€™s compare two different eroding alkyd stains. These donโ€™t keep water out of the wood, so the wood cracks a bit. Still, they are extremely breathable, and keep their color and UV protection at the surface. Transformation Siding and Trim is on the right.Eroding Alkyds - TRW-1

 

 

Hard Acrylic vs. Elastic Acrylic An unusually hard acrylic stain (right) alongside Captureยฎ with Cascadeยฎ (left). Both were exposed for 18 months. The hard acrylic cracked and peeled profusely. Breathability hardly matters for that stain. On the Captureยฎ/Cascadeยฎ side, there is nearly no damage because they kept water out. Even where there are cracks in the wood, peeling has not started yet because Captureยฎ and Cascadeยฎ are still very breathable. WT_vs_W15_CabotSPF

 

 

Typical Acrylic Here we see a common acrylic stain (right) versus Sashcoโ€™s Captureยฎ and Cascadeยฎ stain system (left), exposed for 18 months. Note that on the right, the water getting into the wood has cracked and aged the wood, as well as the stain, but on the left side, with hyperelastic Captureยฎ, the stain is still looking very good. CH_vs_W53_TimberEdgeNaturesEdge

 

 

 

Why Paint is a Bad Idea 

Weโ€™ve just discussed that paint is very breathable. So why not just paint a log home?

painted_1-log-home-painted-beforepainted_2-log-home-painted-after
BeforeAfter

Itโ€™s true that paint lasts longer, but itโ€™s also true that paint hides developing problems. Let’s take a closer look.

bad-rot-02bad-rot-01

Note the blue tape on these logs. Those all mark areas of rotten wood. Before they knew it, they were digging out the entire corner of that house

The home above is a perfect example of paint hiding developing problems. From the outside, everything looked to be in pretty good shapeโ€ฆuntil the contractor started tapping on the logs. Before they knew it, an entire corner of the home had to be replaced. Nearly $100,000 later, the home was repaired. The homeowners were happy to have a semi-transparent stain applied this time.

tannins-loghome

With a semi-transparent stain, you can see water damage beginning (as shown in the photo above). With paint, all of that is hidden, often until itโ€™s too late.

 

With all this talk of water damaging log and timber structures, we need to remember that good building design plays a key role in keeping water off the logs and timbers too. Foundations that are at least 18โ€ above the ground, gutters and downspouts, and wider eaves will all help keep water out of a log home.

Conclusion

So, how important is breathability? Well, it is important that a stain or coating that will be used on exterior wood has enough breathability that it will minimize or eliminate any damage from moisture escaping the wood. A high-performance log stain will meet this need. But as shown, itโ€™s more important to keep out water to begin with โ€” and that starts with a high-performance stain that can move with the wood, is applied properly, and then maintained regularly.

Request A Free Stain Sample

Donโ€™t surrender your fate to an online color chart. Order your free stain samples today.

 

Mildew vs. Algae: Mildew growth on a log railing spindle…or is it algae? What is that black stuff growing on my house? Mildew, right? Well…maybe not.

(more…)

In todayโ€™s โ€œHere to Help!โ€, weโ€™re talking about what log home stain and marriage have in common.

(more…)

Before you know it, spring will be here! If your logs could use a little spring spruce up, or your whole home is simply begging for a spanking-new coat of stain, now is the perfect time to start planning. In this monthโ€™s โ€œHere to Help!,” we help you figure out just how much log home stain youโ€™ll need to get the job done right the first time.

(more…)

Want our top wood staining tips to make sure your homeโ€™s stain is applied correctly? You got it! In this monthโ€™s โ€œHere to Help!,โ€ enjoy tips that will have you staining like the pros!

(more…)

One of our most frequently asked questions is if painting or staining a log home is best. Read on to find out what we recommend.

Technical Report | The Role of Coating Breathability in Preventing Rot in Log and Timber Structures

Overview

Itโ€™s common knowledge that moisture trapped in wood will, over time, lead to rot. Because significant rot can lead to tens of thousands of dollars in repairs, itโ€™s imperative to use a coating (stain, paint, varnish, etc.) that will both prevent most moisture from getting into wood in the first place, and also provide an escape route for moisture that does get into the wood. Voices on the internet and elsewhere would tell you that this has more to do with the breathability of the coating itself. Breathability is important, because no matter how carefully built, properly stained, or well-maintained a structure is, some liquid water will eventually get past the outer defenses and into a building. But the breathability of a coating is not the primary factor in preventing rot.

So, what is?

Inside

(more…)

Most people understand the importance of applying good skin care products that include sunscreen to help minimize sun damage, reduce skin discoloration, and keep skin protected and moisturized. Do you know that applying a UV-protected wood stain or maintenance coat of stain on your home does the same. Hereโ€™s an easy comparison for you to follow:

(more…)

Let’s talk about lasting wood stain. First, take a moment to think back to your childhood. What was one thing your mom told you over and over because it was THAT important? You know, the thing she belabored above all things to help keep you safe, make you successful, or train you well? Well, hereโ€™s Sashco being your log home finishing mom to belabor something you already know, but we figure is worth repeating over and over again: proper prep is the ultimate determiner of long-term performance of a stain. Without proper surface prep, even the best product in the world will fail. In fact, mastering surface prep is often the difference between you and your competition. If you do it better, your job will look better and withstand the test of time (and that means your business will too).

(more…)