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It’s easy to make your own Log Jam® chink paint on site. And since mixing your own costs 1/3 less than buying premixed chink paint, it’s the money-smart choice. Simply follow the instructions below, then apply over any water-based chinking.



It seems insignificant, but some sort of bond breaker — backer rod or grip strip or clear packing tape — is the difference between a long-lasting, durable caulking and chinking job and redoing the work year after year. That bond breaker creates the ideal joint design to keep your caulking and chinking stretching properly over time.


Backer Rod, Grip Strip, and Log Gap Cap all help you create the ideal joint design for a long-lasting, durable seal. Follow these simple steps or learn more,

Step 1:  Tape off the areas to be sealed.


So, you did a stellar job of sealing cracks and checks in your log home. Hooray! Now, a couple of years later, you’re noticing that some of the caulk has cracked. After all that hard work? Ugh. So, what do you need to do to fix cracked caulk? Keep reading for all the details.

Why does caulk crack anyhow?

On most log homes, a handful of those logs will undergo extreme movement. This movement is a part of what makes a log a log. Moderate movement is normal, but the occasional maverick log can randomly and unpredictably twist, shrink or warp in response to moisture changes (like the first time the heat is turned on that winter), moving more than any sealant can possibly handle. When this extreme movement occurs, it will cause the sealant to fail either cohesively or adhesively. Here’s how to do repairs.

Cohesive failure

This is where the sealant splits apart down the middle of the joint. There’s still caulk sticking to the sides of the joint. Repairing cohesive failure is pretty simple:

  1. Relieve the pressure by taking a razor blade to finish the job. (Sounds silly, but this is necessary for the repair to work properly.)
  2. Insert backer rd behind the caulk, if there isn’t some there already.
  3. Clean the surfaces to remove dust and other surface contaminants.
  4. Apply more sealant right over top. You can only do this if the product you’re using is compatible with whatever’s already in there. With Sashco’s products, this is no problem. If you used silicone, you’ll have to remove it all. Boo.(Moral of the story: don’t use silicone on log homes.

Adhesive failure

This is when the sealant pulls away from the edge of the logs. In this case, a bit more investigation is necessary. Adhesive failure can be either due to movement or because of an incompatibility between the stain or clear coat used on the logs and the caulking. If it’s only due to movement, here’s the fix:

  1. Remove the sealant completely. You’ll have to cut it out entirely.
  2. Insert backer rod or another bond breaker behind the caulk or chinking, if one is not already there.
  3. Clean the joint, especially at the edges where the new product will be sticking. Make sure there are no loose wood fibers or peeling stains or paints. It may mean you need to break out the sand paper or Dremel® tool. (Power tools. Argh.)
  4. Apply more caulking or chinking over top. Smooth it out, just like before.

If the failure is due to an incompatibility between the stain/clear coat on the wood, you’ll have to do some more extensive work to get the new caulking or chinking to stick:

  1. Remove what’s in there now.
  2. Sand down the edges of the joints to remove the stain/clear coat.
  3. Clean with a degreaser of some kind (Formula 409® and the like do a good job).
  4. OPTIONAL (and best): Stain just those areas with a compatible product.
  5. Insert backer rod or a bond breaker, if one isn’t already there.
  6. Apply more caulking and chinking, smoothing as before.

Looking for tips on log home care and maintenance? Check out our blog for more tips and information that will help you preserve your dream log home.

Log Blog

Explore inspiration, learn about our products and get tips from the pros over at the Log Blog!

To seal or not to seal? That is the question! In this month’s “Here to Help!”, we’re sharing our best caulking secrets to help you know when to seal checks on your log home.


This month’s training tip comes directly from a question we received recently about their log home chinking. A customer asked, “Do I really need to wait until the logs are dry to chink?” Our very own Jim Barnes, Senior Stains Chemist, answers this question.


A trip to the southwest and the beauty of the Rocky Mountains were the catalysts for our log home “love affair.” We knew we would not be happy until we had one! Having a construction background, I decided to build our dream log home. That was thirty-three years ago, and the rest, as they say, is history.

Love for Log Homes

Log homes are such unique structures that working on them brings us a feeling of fulfillment and satisfaction. Nothing is more gratifying than the praise and thanks received from satisfied customers.  Walking into a log home is like receiving a big warm hug from someone you love and we feel privileged to work on them, as well as live in the one we built.


There’s no better time than spring to talk about the birds and the bees. Mostly, the bees. This time of year, carpenter bees begin to wreak havoc on log homes! Our very own log home expert and Southeast Territory Manager Extraordinaire Paul Peebles shares tried and true tips for nipping carpenter bees in the bud!


Are the slower winter months getting you down?  In this month’s Experts Corner, our very own log home expert and Southeast Territory Manager, Paul Peebles, introduces you to thermography, a service ideal to offer during those leaner winter months.

Working outside as a professional log home contractor has many rewards. There are also drawbacks. The most obvious problem is those certain times you just cannot work due to the weather. Sure, many of you guys out west use tents and tarps and heaters to finish up jobs. Costs, access to the job site, and other factors make using such equipment just impractical for most projects.