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Got “Cabin Fever?” So do we! Sashco products are featured on national television again! We’re kind of a big deal like that (wink, wink).

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Since its introduction in 1985…

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In addition to being ugly, splits and tears in caulking can also lead to costly damage and unnecessary headaches. Here are some examples of different types of substrate caulking failure so that we can better understand them.

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Most blisters in caulking happen when large amounts of moisture vapor try to evaporate out of the caulk line too quickly and after it has skinned over. This is more likely to happen when the caulk is applied in direct sunlight, to hot surfaces, in hot temperatures, or to wet surfaces. We know that those conditions are not always avoidable, so some blistering is normal and to be expected. When possible, apply caulking during the cool part of day, out of direct sun and to dry surfaces. If you can’t, remember that repairs are easy.

Tools You’ll Need:

  1. Utility Knife
  2. Caulking
  3. Spray Bottle (filled with water)

How-To Fix Blisters in Caulk or Chinking

In dried or cured caulk:

  1. Cut out the blister
  2. Fill in the cavity with new caulk
  3. Tool it so it’s smooth and matches the existing caulk bead.

Note: A couple of applications may be necessary to get a uniform look.

In caulk that is not completely cured:

  1. Simply pop a hole in the blister to release the air
  2. Push it in to seal up the cavity
  3. Then apply a bit more caulk over top of the blister.
  4. Tool the caulk so it’s smooth with the rest of the caulk line. Done!

Want more? Watch this video – How to Repair Bubbles in Slab

As winter winds down, you might notice some tears in the caulking around your windows, doors, siding, etc.
It is important to understand what causes caulking tears and how to prevent them from occurring again. We will discuss the causes of caulking failure and, most importantly, some easy fixes.

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If you want to add texture and dimension to your home, log chinking is a great way to do so. But before you start the project, there are a few things you need to know.

First thing first, choose a good quality chinking.

Bad Chinking vs. Good Chinking (Log Jam)

Good vs Bad Chinking

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New Construction

Joint Design

(Insert Joint Design photo from Data Tech)

The diagram shows the ideal type of joint design for all sealants—which allows for maximum sealant movement and favors cohesive failure (the best kind) if the movement is so than 15% of the log width. For example, with 10″ diameter logs, the chink joint should be about 1 1/2″ wide. If you choose to apply a smaller bead, expect more chinking repairs.

Ideal sealant depth is half of the joint width, but no less than 1/4″, nor more than 1/2″.

Restoration

Wood should be clean and stained, as discussed in the Fundamental Chinking Application Guidelines on page. Remove all loose mortar.

Bond-Breaker: When using Log Jam as a restoration chinking over old mortar, cover it with clear packing tape, which provides a surface Log Jam will not stick to. When movement occurs, the Log Jam will be free to stretch.

Tooling: Log Jam should be tooled to contact at least 1/2” of the bare wood surface on either side of the old mortar. This will ensure adequate adhesion.

Slab Siding

(Insert Slab siding illustration from Data Tech)

Slab siding can pose a special challenge due to the very rapid and large amount of movement it often exhibits after being installed. This movement shows up as extreme shrinkage, bowing and twisting, and can stress sealants more than logs do. To help reduce this problem, follow these additional tips with slab siding: 1. Use only dry slab siding (19% or less moisture wp-content level, verified with a moisture meter) 2. Install the siding with heavy screws, not nails.

3. If applying over TyvekTM house wrap, make sure the TyvekTM is

wrinkle free and tape over it with clear packing tape.
4. If the boards are thick enough, install Half Rod backer rod with

the round portion of the profile facing out. This will provide for the best joint design. (Refer to the graphic.)

Routine log home maintenance will keep your home looking beautiful as well as cut down on costs. Everyone knows that a $30 oil change twice a year beats a $2,000 mechanic’s bill. Routine maintenance on your logs, timbers or wood could be the difference between $2,000 every 3-5 years or $20,000 to completely redo the job. It’s truly the key to “a better way to stain.”

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All homes require maintenance at some point in their life cycle. Just like conventional stick-built homes need to be scraped and repainted, log and timber homes (the same is true for decks and fences, for that matter) need to be re-stained periodically. Like fresh paint on conventional homes, stains, and regular maintenance help protect log and timber homes. In the end, proper, consistent maintenance will save you time, money, and headaches. It’s like the saying goes: an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. We’ve got you covered. These six maintenance tips will keep your log home looking like new!

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