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It’s easy to make your own Log Jam® chink paint on site. And since mixing your own costs 1/3 less than buying premixed chink paint, it’s the money-smart choice. Simply follow the instructions below, then apply over any water-based chinking.


A trip to the southwest and the beauty of the Rocky Mountains were the catalysts for our log home “love affair.” We knew we would not be happy until we had one! Having a construction background, I decided to build our dream log home. That was thirty-three years ago, and the rest, as they say, is history.


Love for
Log Homes

Log homes are such unique structures that working on them brings us a feeling of fulfillment and satisfaction. Nothing is more gratifying than the praise and thanks received from satisfied customers.  Walking into a log home is like receiving a big warm hug from someone you love and we feel privileged to work on them, as well as live in the one we built.


First things first, you’ll need a supply of Log Jam® chinking, Log Builder®, or Conceal®.

(Give our friendly and knowledgeable customer service folks a call. They’re happy to help you figure out colors and quantities.)


On last week’s episode of Cabin Fever, Grizzly Bob gave us a brief history of log chinking while showing Sashco’s Log Jam® being applied to Crazy Mountain Brewing Company’s offices in Edwards, CO.

It got us thinking of other chinking recipes we’ve come across:

Someone used some underthings for log chinking.
Shown above. Fruit of the Loom chinking: It kept some of the cold out and was an instant conversation starter.

The recipes for old time chinking are diverse and many. But they all lacked stick-to-it-tiveness. Oh, it sticks around on the homes for a good long time, but it doesn’t stick to the sides of the logs it was designed to seal. Of course, back in the 1800’s, synthetic chinking hadn’t yet been invented. (We’re pretty sure it’d be the talk of the town if it had been.)

Sashco’s history in chinking isn’t as storied as the recipes above, but it’s a fun story nonetheless. Back in the day, when Sashco’s Acrylic Rubber Sealant was around, some genius log crafters started using it in between logs. They liked its ability to stick and stretch, thereby holding its seal (and keeping those dream log homes weather tight).

But they had one complaint: it didn’t look like chinking. It was too smooth. Thus began the formulation of Sashco’s Log Jam® Chinking. We were one of the first to market with a synthetic chinking for logs that both looked like chinking and delivered a high-performance seal.

We’re proud to say that Log Jam® is now the most popular synthetic chinking in the United States, and is becoming more popular with its use on national television, along with the rest of Sashco’s log home finishing products. Be sure to watch all new episodes of Cabin Fever on Tuesdays at 10 EST, and catch past episodes online.

And most of all, join us in being grateful for the invention of Log Jam® (and the salvation of people’s underthings the world over).

Since its introduction in 1985…


Most blisters in caulking happen when large amounts of moisture vapor try to evaporate out of the caulk line too quickly and after it has skinned over. This is more likely to happen when the caulk is applied in direct sunlight, to hot surfaces, in hot temperatures, or to wet surfaces. We know that those conditions are not always avoidable, so some blistering is normal and to be expected. When possible, apply caulking during the cool part of day, out of direct sun and to dry surfaces. If you can’t, remember that repairs are easy.

Tools You’ll Need:

  1. Utility Knife
  2. Caulking
  3. Spray Bottle (filled with water)

How-To Fix Blisters in Caulk or Chinking

In dried or cured caulk:

  1. Cut out the blister
  2. Fill in the cavity with new caulk
  3. Tool it so it’s smooth and matches the existing caulk bead.

Note: A couple of applications may be necessary to get a uniform look.

In caulk that is not completely cured:

  1. Simply pop a hole in the blister to release the air
  2. Push it in to seal up the cavity
  3. Then apply a bit more caulk over top of the blister.
  4. Tool the caulk so it’s smooth with the rest of the caulk line. Done!

Want more? Watch this video – How to Repair Bubbles in Slab

If you want to add texture and dimension to your home, log chinking is a great way to do so. But before you start the project, there are a few things you need to know.

First thing first, choose a good quality chinking.

Bad Chinking vs. Good Chinking (Log Jam)

Good vs Bad Chinking


New Construction

Joint Design

(Insert Joint Design photo from Data Tech)

The diagram shows the ideal type of joint design for all sealants—which allows for maximum sealant movement and favors cohesive failure (the best kind) if the movement is so than 15% of the log width. For example, with 10″ diameter logs, the chink joint should be about 1 1/2″ wide. If you choose to apply a smaller bead, expect more chinking repairs.

Ideal sealant depth is half of the joint width, but no less than 1/4″, nor more than 1/2″.


Wood should be clean and stained, as discussed in the Fundamental Chinking Application Guidelines on page. Remove all loose mortar.

Bond-Breaker: When using Log Jam as a restoration chinking over old mortar, cover it with clear packing tape, which provides a surface Log Jam will not stick to. When movement occurs, the Log Jam will be free to stretch.

Tooling: Log Jam should be tooled to contact at least 1/2” of the bare wood surface on either side of the old mortar. This will ensure adequate adhesion.

Slab Siding

(Insert Slab siding illustration from Data Tech)

Slab siding can pose a special challenge due to the very rapid and large amount of movement it often exhibits after being installed. This movement shows up as extreme shrinkage, bowing and twisting, and can stress sealants more than logs do. To help reduce this problem, follow these additional tips with slab siding: 1. Use only dry slab siding (19% or less moisture wp-content level, verified with a moisture meter) 2. Install the siding with heavy screws, not nails.

3. If applying over TyvekTM house wrap, make sure the TyvekTM is

wrinkle free and tape over it with clear packing tape.
4. If the boards are thick enough, install Half Rod backer rod with

the round portion of the profile facing out. This will provide for the best joint design. (Refer to the graphic.)