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Fact or Fiction: Linseed oil is food for mold; therefore, you should never use a stain with linseed oil in it.

Answer: It may surprise you! Our resident stain expert Jim Barnes plays some Fact or Fiction to give you the lowdown on the pros and cons of linseed oil to help you decide.  

Fact or Fiction: Linseed oil contributes to mildew growth.

Answer: Sort of fact…and sort of fiction. 

In properly formulated oil-based stains, like Sashco’s Transformation Log & Timber Stain, mildew and algae growth is no worse than on any other modern stain. These formulas contain mildewcides and algaecides to prevent or significantly reduce these problems. That said, it’s true that linseed oil can be a food source for these molds. The mildew growth can be severe when not coupled with these mildewcides. When homeowners buy straight linseed oil from hardware stores, dilute it with some mineral spirits and Japan drier, and make their own “stain” mildew growth is not uncommon. This practice is still common enough that most contractors have or will come across this scenario. Unfortunately, homeowners who DIY stain this way don’t have access to the modern mildewcides and algaecides that most manufacturers who use linseed oil include in their formulas.  

Fact or Fiction: Linseed oil is just another oil and isn’t anything special.

Answer: Fiction.

Linseed oil is rare among drying oils because it remains soft and flexible for a long time after drying. Most drying oils get hard and brittle. In moderate quantities, it is used to soften alkyds and other oils commonly used in semi-transparent stains. The final formulation remains flexible enough to move with the wood as it expands and contracts with moisture and temperature variations. The stain doesn’t crack under normal wood movement and can keep water out for years when properly formulated. There are many oil-based stains on the market precisely because oil stains provide unparalleled beauty, penetration, ease of use, and the ability to reliably re-stain woods. Often, water-based stains can’t match all of these benefits. Linseed oil plays a critical role in this.  


When we come across opinion pieces that declare anything as the root of all evil, it is good to follow the money: what are the writers trying to sell? It is easy to point to the worst-case DIY linseed stain and cry out, “The sky is falling!” The reality is it’s somewhere closer to Earth.  

SO…  

Is linseed oil a problem in some stains? Yes, absolutely.

When we see severely blackened mildew on a home, does that mean its stain contained linseed? Nope. It might, but plenty of cheaply formulated stains and coatings, both oil and water-based, don’t protect well against mildew and algae. Algae by itself can appear black, especially when dirty, and many stains don’t protect against algae at all. (Sashco is unique here. We’re the only company in the log home market that includes algaecide in all of its stains.) Any sun-exposed area that looks like mildew should be suspected of being algae.

Do we have to take extra care when re-staining a home with severe mildew? Yes. We want to kill the mildew spores, preferably with oxygen bleach (or regular bleach and LOTS of rinsing). Using a high-quality stain with mildewcides and algaecides is essential for keeping mildew at bay in the future.

Is media blasting good enough to remove severe mildew? When the blasting is sufficient to remove all the visible discoloration, it can be. That level of blasting isn’t always desirable, so it is sometimes preferable to pre-treat the mildewed surfaces with an oxygen bleach before blasting.   Will leftover linseed oil in the wood cause future mildew?  If the stain is properly formulated with mildewcides and algaecides, there shouldn’t be any problems if the wood has been prepared (blasted) down to the “freshly sanded” color.

So to sum up:

Color is a beautiful thing. It can also be the source of sleepless nights, eye-twitching, and the reason you’re popping Tums. Let’s face it, choosing the right color for your log home is a big deal, and it can feel pretty darn stressful. We get it, and we’re here to help! These top-tips go a long way to giving you color confidence!

Get Inspired

First, spend a lot of time just looking around at homes you love. What tones speak to you? Looking at stain colors on other homes gives you a big picture idea of what to expect on your own. We have tons of inspiration for you here.

Take Your Color & Maintenance Temperature

Next, consider maintenance and protection. While every Sashco stain will protect your home from the beating Mother Nature dishes out, darker stains do provide slightly more longevity. Lighter colors require slightly more frequent maintenance. When choosing a stain color, “take your temperature.” What’s most important to you? Want to go darker and go a bit longer between maintenance coats? Great, you’ll be thrilled with colors like Transformation Stain in Brown Tone Dark or Redwood, or Capture Log Stain in Chestnut or Mahogany. Maybe you’re more of a purist and prefer lighter, more natural-looking logs and don’t mind doing maintenance a few months earlier. Perfect, we’ve got just what you’re looking for. You’ll be swooning over colors like Capture Log Stain in Natural or Wheat, or Transformation Stain in Gold Tone Light or Natural.    

Try Before You Buy!

Once you’ve decided which color family you prefer, try it on for size! If you’ve ever painted a room, you know that seeing color on a tiny chip versus an entire room is a very different experience. Multiply it by, well, a lot, when you see a stain color online or stain board versus your entire home! If you want total color confidence, you need to know the color you choose for your home is right before you cover the whole dang thing and it’s too late. Many factors influence what a stain looks like on your home—lighting, wood prep, even individual logs impact how stain looks. We take the stress out of selecting a color with the sample packages of your dreams. One quick order gets you product info, samples, and more — all in a fun box. It’s like receiving peace of mind in the mailbox. Get your free stain samples here.

Congratulations! You’re on your way to a gorgeous log home and way better sleep. You can go ahead and toss the Tums.

Tip #1: Proper Prep, Please!

Spend any time around Sashco peeps, and you’ll hear ad nauseam about the importance of proper prep. Why? Because it will guarantee the best long-term performance in a stain. Without proper surface prep, even the best log home stain in the world will fail.

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Mold might be the most dreadful of all four-letter words!

When dealing with mold, you may come up with a few four-letter words of your own. No wonder. It’s a major headache!

You probably wonder, “Can I scrub that black spot off the caulk?” In good faith, you try to clean the surface. The surface may even look good briefly, but then you realize mold is growing beneath the caulk. Argh! Even re-caulking your bathtub or shower does not work. It always returns over and over again. Please give me an Advil and an explanation for why it keeps coming back.

You don’t have to worry. We’ve got you covered. You might discover mold and mildew growing underneath your bathroom caulk, which means that new caulk will not fix the problem (Say what?!?!?!). They keep growing back, so even if you replace the caulk, the mildew keeps coming back, and then you just end up where you started. It’s a frustrating cycle that never ends.

 What are the best ways to determine where mold or mildew is growing?

 Here’s a quick test you can perform, along with DIY tips on how to fix things once and for all.

The bleach test

Soak a cotton ball in fresh chlorine bleach and apply it to mildewed caulk. If it disappears immediately, the mildew is growing on top of the caulk. Score! You just need a little elbow grease and a thorough cleaning session.

Mildew that takes 45 seconds or more to disappear is likely mildew under the caulk, requiring more effort (and persistence, don’t worry, you’ve got this).

Here’s how to tackle that project.

1. Remove the caulk.

2. Assess the situation.

Do you see mildew where you removed the caulk? This happens when rigid caulk loses adhesion or crack. Water gets behind the caulk and causes mold and mildew. Is it difficult to see the mildew? Unfortunately, it may be behind the tile, and the caulk line is simply an exit. (Ugh.) Remove a tile (we know, but there’s still Advil) and see where the mildew comes from. Moisture often enters through unsealed grout lines. The scenario can be a bit like trying to find the source of a leaky pipe. You can see the water dripping and the damage it is causing, but it takes some detective work to discover where the leak comes from.

 3. Eliminate mildew.

Hopefully, the mildew growth is localized and minor. Mildew remover products or mild bleach and water solutions – 5 parts water to 1 part bleach are great options. Getting a specialist in is essential if that tile you removed hints at something more serious (like mildew covering the walls and tile backs, or visible mildew around the surrounding tiles, etc.).

4. Reset the tiles and seal the grout

It’s important to seal that grout to prevent any further moisture infiltration. You can find grout sealer at any hardware store. Re-caulk after removing all mildew, and the surface is clean.  

5. Re-caulk

If you don’t want mildew to grow on your caulk, use an enzyme-based product (like Sashco’s CleanSeal®) or a product that has a chemical composition that naturally inhibits mildew growth (like Sashco’s Lexel®). 

6. You’ve worked hard, so enjoy it.

Let’s toast to that mold-free shower. Linger under that hot water and marvel at the lack of black stuff. Oh, that’s so soothing. Cheers!

Need some more info? Check out these resources:

Do you know the five most common signs that you need to do log home stain maintenance?
Identifying signs that it’s time to maintain your log home with a fresh coat of stain, or Cascade® Clear Coat is easy. Start by downloading this handy inspection guide to carry along with you as you perform your inspection as the very first step in your maintenance plan.

Loss of sheen 

Most clear coats have a satin sheen when first applied, and while still in good shape. Over time, that clear coat or stain erodes due to weathering. Look at your home in the sun or take a flash light to it. If it looks a bit flat, it’s time for maintenance. 

Color shifts in log Stain

Does your stain look darker than it did originally? Perhaps there’s some fading going on where it’s exposed to sun? Both are signs that your stain (andthe UV filters in it) have worn off and need to be replenished. 

Water not shedding

Break out the hose or a spray bottle. Is water still running down the logs? It should sheet off the wood, not bead up. Any areas where water isn’t “sheeting” well needs a fresh coat of stain or clear coat.

Dirt, pollen, bird poo, etc.

Over time, surface contaminants will eat away at the integrity of your stain. If you can see these contaminants, it’s time for a good wash down at least, and possibly time for more another coat of stain. 

New micro checks and cracks in the wood

Have any new micro checks (the tiny cracks in the face of the logs themselves) appeared? If so, those are unprotected by stain and need to be treated! Left unprotected, they’ll allow moisture to come in that can compromise the integrity of the stain, not to mention invite rot. Make sure new micro checks are filled with stain or a your clear coat. (Important note: Make sure any crack that’s 1/4″ wide or larger on the upper curve of the log is caulked with Conceal® or Log Builder®, not just stained.)
We have GREAT news! It’s only necessary to apply more stain and/or a clear coat where it’s needed, when it’s needed.
In some cases, the north and east sides of the home can be skipped the first time you maintain the south and west sides. They don’t get the same UV exposure and don’t tend to need care as soon. Any areas protected by an eave, overhang, or porch will likely require less maintenance over time, too. Proper planning and education will help you stay on top of your maintenance, so many times there’s no need to re-coat the whole darn house every time. (We’re all about saving the weekends for fun and relaxation, too.)
That’s it! Great job! You’ve determined what needs to be done to protect your log home come spring.
Need a little more guidance and help planning? No problem, our customer service team is always happy to help! Give us a call at 800-767-5656.

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Backer Rod, Grip Strip, and Log Gap Cap all help you create the ideal joint design for a long-lasting, durable seal. Follow these simple steps or learn more, https://www.youtube.com/c/Sashco.

Step 1:  Tape off the areas to be sealed.

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Have you ever tried to run a cloth or duster over wood with no clear coat on it? It’s horrible! It catches on the wood, doesn’t remove the dust, and ultimately makes a bigger mess. Even worse is trying to clean wood that is permanently yellow from UV exposure and oxidization. Follow these 3 steps to create an easy-to-clean, won’t-get-discolored constant warm glow in your log or wood home. BONUS: Interior finishing needs to be done only once. Routine cleaning — wiping down cobwebs, dust that settles, fingerprints, etc. — is all that’s needed to maintain the finish and keep the wood looking like new.

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Outdoor hand rails and spindles, especially those not protected by overhangs, require specialized and more frequent care because of their extreme exposure to weather. A few easy tips are all it take to to prevent rot on log railings.

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What do you get when you combine a roofing contractor and a sealant manufacturer for a chimney repair project (apart from much time spent arguing over who gets to use the rad tools)? An expert example of tuckpointing a chimney.

Recently, Sashco president Les Burch and Sashco team members Sabrina and Randy helped Shane Guerra, the owner of Synergy Property Solutions, and his team, repair a chimney. Shane used Mor-Flexx, a latex acrylic caulk designed specifically for the chimney repairs. Mor-Flexx is ideal for use on mortar between stucco, concrete, bricks, and stone, or stucco repairs. (more…)