Maintaining Your Log Home
ROUTINE INSPECTIONS & MAINTENANCE
While these homes look vastly different, they have one thing in common: the need for semi-annual inspections and regular maintenance. Routine inspections will help you determine what kind of work is needed and alert you that it’s time to do maintenance to help keep your home looking its best.
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When To Do It
- Fall: check for any summer damage and winterize your home
- Spring: check for any winter damage and summerize your home
How To Do It
- Download Sashco’s Log Home Inspection Guide to use as a checklist.
- Draw a rough exterior wall plan of your home and note on the sketch each wall where maintenance is needed. Also note areas that may not need maintenance now but will need to be revisited at the next inspection.
- Take pictures. It can be hard to go back and find that crack or check the next time around. Also remember to include a point of reference, as many logs look alike.
- If you’re looking for a contractor, let Sashco help you Find a Contractor who can perform both the inspection and the maintenance for you.
BLACK LOGS / ROT & MOISTURE PROBLEMS
With routine inspections and regular maintenance, you should be able to avoid this on your home. But if your home (or any part of it) now looks like this, it’s time for some major restoration. Logs that look like this are suffering from significant moisture infiltration and UV degradation.
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When To Do It
As soon as weather permits! The longer your home is in this kind of condition, the easier and faster the problems will grow, which could lead to even more expenses. Most products work best on surface temps between 40°F - 90°F, but check the instructions for the products you use, as each will have its own recommendations. No matter what product you use, it’s always more difficult to do this kind of restoration in cold weather, but it can be accomplished with the proper equipment. If you have questions about timing, contact Sashco’s Customer Service to discuss details of your particular situation.
How To Do It
- Find out where the moisture is coming from – moisture can come from a variety of sources, including any of the following locations:
- Splash back. If water is hitting a concrete sidewalk or rocks or shrubs or anything else close enough to the wood and splashing back, take corrective measures to direct moisture away from the logs.
- A tree or shrub too close to the wall. Cut shrubs back to give at least 3 feet of space between them and the logs. Try to keep tree branches at least 12 feet away from the logs.
- Insufficient eaves and overhangs. Consider extending these to a minimum of 2 feet. If yours are not this large and you can’t extend them, be sure to perform more regular maintenance on the walls below.
- Lack of gutters and downspouts. Just like conventional construction, log homes need gutters and downspouts to keep water off the walls.
- Still not sure where the moisture is coming from? Contact Sashco’s Customer Service to discuss your particular situation.
- Check for rot. Lightly tap on the bare areas of the logs with a hammer. Any hollow sounds or areas that easily give way mean rot has taken residence. You will need to determine the extent of the rot and whether you can get away with remedial treatment or if partial- or full-log replacement is necessary. If it’s minor damage (say no more than an inch or two deep and no more than a few feet long), treat with an epoxy or wood hardener and move forward with finishing. Anything more extensive will require a professional inspection. Let Sashco help you Find a Contractor around your area who can do an inspection for you and help you determine if any log replacement is necessary.
- Check for insect infestations. Wet wood is an easy target for many insects because it’s easier for them to get through. Check for any insect infestations and treat them with appropriate insecticides. This may require bringing in a professional pest management company.
- Blast the walls. You need to get down to original wood. Crushed Glass Media or Corn Cob Media blasting is the preferred method, especially if you have moisture-induced problems. Power washing with CPR can be done but may end up exacerbating the problems, even if done well. Watch the demonstration videos - Partial Log Restoration - Part I, Using CPR & Power Washing and Log Blasting Techniques with Corn Cob & Glass Media Before Staining
- Clean the walls, if necessary, then sand them. Blasting (as described above) will usually get rid of most mold and mildew. But sometimes a second cleaning with a wood-friendly cleaner like CPR is needed to get rid of any remaining mold and mildew. Allow the wood to thoroughly dry. Sanding or buffing (preferably with Osborn Brushes, Buffy Pads, or a 60- to 80-grit sand paper) will be necessary after cleaning is done and the walls are dry. Watch the demonstration videos - Optional Log Prep After Blasting Logs and Partial Log Restoration - Part II, After Power Washing
- Apply PeneTreat. This borate-based wood preservative will help prevent rot.
- Install Bor8 Rods or Cobra Rods. These rods should be installed in logs that are unprotected or are exposed to large amounts of moisture. Refer to each product’s application instructions for proper installation.
- Apply a quality stain boosted with additional mildewcides. Sashco’s full line of stains can be boosted with Stay Clean I/E. The combination of the two products is deadly to surface mold and mildew. And Sashco’s stains are formulated with only the highest-quality raw materials, giving you the outstanding performance and longevity you expect out of your log home stain. Watch the demonstration videos - How to Stain Blasted Walls and How to Apply Capture Stain & Cascade Clear Coat to A Log Home
- Apply caulking and / or chinking. Any crack that is 1/4" or more wide, especially on the upper curve of the log, should be sealed. Insert appropriate size backer rod or Grip Strip and apply caulk (such as Log Builder or Conceal) over top. Any large joints – those 2" and wider – should be sealed using chinking (such as Log Jam or Chinker's Edge). Be sure to follow closely the application instructions for each product to ensure the best results.
- Maintain your home! Routine inspections and regular maintenance will prolong the life of your log home, saving you time and money throughout the years.
GRAY LOGS
If your home looks like this – gray all the way around – it needs major restoration! Gray is the color wood turns when it is severely UV damaged. You want to get back to good, sound wood, then stain to get your home protected again. (If gray is the color you like, you can keep that color and still protect your home by applying a gray stain.
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When To Do It
As soon as weather permits! Wood that is badly UV damaged is a breeding ground for rot-causing fungi and insects. Most products work best on surface temps between 40°F - 90°F, but check the instructions for the products you use, as each will have its own recommendations.
How To Do It
- Check for rot. Lightly tap on the bare areas of the logs with a hammer. Any hollow sounds or areas that easily give way mean rot has taken residence. You will need to determine the extent of the rot and whether you can get away with remedial treatment or if partial- or full-log replacement is necessary. If it’s minor damage (say no more than an inch or two deep and no more than a few feet long), treat with an epoxy or wood hardener and move forward with finishing. Anything more extensive will require a professional inspection. Let Sashco help you Find a Contractor around your area who can do an inspection for you and help you determine if any log replacement is necessary.
- Check for insect infestations. UV damaged wood is an easy target for many insects because it’s easier to get through. Check for any insect infestations and treat them with appropriate insecticides. This may require bringing in a professional pest management company.
- Blast the walls. You need to get down to original wood. Crushed Glass Media or Corn Cob Media blasting is the preferred method. Power washing with CPR can be effective if done correctly. Other options include hand sanding or grinding the walls down with Osborn Brushes or Buffy Pads. Watch the demonstration videos - Partial Log Restoration - Part I, Using CPR & Power Washing and Log Blasting Techniques with Corn Cob & Glass Media Before Staining
- Clean the walls, if necessary, then sand them. Blasting (as described above) will usually get rid of most mold and mildew. But sometimes a second cleaning with a wood-friendly cleaner like CPR is needed to get rid of any remaining mold and mildew. Allow the wood to thoroughly dry. Sanding or buffing (preferably with Osborn Brushes, Buffy Pads, or a 60- or 80-grit sand paper) will be necessary after cleaning is done and the walls are dry. Watch the demonstration videos - Optional Log Prep After Blasting Logs and Partial Log Restoration - Part II, After Power Washing
- Apply PeneTreat. This borate-based wood preservative will help prevent rot.
- Install Bor8 Rods or Cobra Rods. These rods should be installed in logs that are unprotected or are susceptible to large amounts of moisture. Refer to each product’s application instructions proper installation information.
- Apply a quality stain. Sashco’s stains are formulated with only the highest-quality raw materials, giving you the outstanding performance and longevity you expect out of your log home stain. If you’re in a high-humidity area or your home has snow that sits on the logs for long periods of time, boost the stain with Stay Clean I/E, a surface mildewcide, to help further protect your stain and home. Watch the demonstration videos - How to Stain Blasted Walls and How to Apply Capture Stain & Cascade Clear Coat to A Log Home
- Apply caulking and / or chinking. Any crack that is 1/4" or more wide, especially on the upper curve, should be sealed. Insert appropriate size backer rod or Grip Strip and apply caulk (such as Log Builder or Conceal) over top. Any large joints – those 2” and wider – should be sealed using chinking (such as Log Jam or Chinker’s Edge). Be sure to follow closely the application instructions for each product to ensure the best results.
- Maintain your home! Routine inspections and regular maintenance will prolong the life of your log home, saving you time and money throughout the years.
YELLOW LOGS
If your logs look like this – bare, with a nice golden yellow color – it’s time to finish your logs! This kind of look is usually seen either on completely bare wood or on wood that has been coated with a clear finish. That lovely golden yellow color is UV damage and must be removed prior to applying any other products to ensure good longevity and performance of the products, as well as adequate protection of the home.
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When To Do It
As soon as weather permits! Wood that is UV damaged is a breeding ground for rot-causing fungi and insects. Most products work best on surface temps between 40°F - 90°F, but check the instructions for the products you use, as each will have its own recommendations.
How To Do It
- Check for rot. Lightly tap on the bare areas of the logs with a hammer. Any hollow sounds or areas that easily give way mean rot has taken residence. You will need to determine the extent of the rot and whether you can get away with remedial treatment or if partial- or full-log replacement is necessary. If it’s minor damage (say no more than an inch or two deep and no more than a few feet long), treat with an epoxy or wood hardener and move forward with finishing. Anything more extensive will require a professional inspection. Let Sashco help you Find a Contractor around your area who can do an inspection for you and help you determine if any log replacement is necessary.
- Check for insect infestations. UV damaged wood is an easy target for many insects because it’s easier to get through. Check for any insect infestations and treat them with appropriate insecticides. This may require bringing in a professional pest management company.
- Blast the walls. You need to get down to original wood. Crushed Glass Media or Corn Cob Media blasting is the preferred method. Power washing with CPR can be effective if done correctly. Other options include hand sanding or grinding the walls down with Osborn Brushes or Buffy Pads. Watch the demonstration videos - Partial Log Restoration - Part I, Using CPR & Power Washing and Log Blasting Techniques with Corn Cob & Glass Media Before Staining
- Apply PeneTreat. This borate-based wood preservative will help prevent rot.
- Install Bor8 Rods or Cobra Rods. These rods should be installed in logs that are unprotected or are susceptible to large amounts of moisture. Refer to each product’s application instructions proper installation information.
- Apply a quality stain. Sashco’s stains are formulated with only the highest-quality raw materials, giving you the outstanding performance and longevity you expect out of your log home stain. If you’re in a high-humidity area or your home has snow that sits on the logs for long periods of time, boost the stain with Stay Clean I/E, a surface mildewcide, to help further protect your stain and home. Watch the demonstration videos - How to Stain Blasted Walls and How to Apply Capture Stain & Cascade Clear Coat to A Log Home
- Apply caulking and / or chinking. Any crack that is 1/4" or more wide, especially on the upper curve, should be sealed. Insert appropriate size backer rod and apply caulk (such as Log Builder or Conceal) over top. Any large joints – those 2” and wider – should be sealed using chinking (such as Log Jam or Chinker’s Edge). Be sure to follow closely the application instructions for each product to ensure the best results.
- Maintain your home! Routine inspections and regular maintenance will prolong the life of your log home, saving you time and money throughout the years.
UPPER CURVATURE DEGRADED
If your home looks like this – the upper curvature of the logs are deteriorated but the lower curve is still in good shape – it’s time for some spot re-finishing and sealing.
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When To Do It
As soon as weather permits. The exposed wood can let in moisture and insects, leading to more serious problems. Areas like this can usually withstand a short, mild winter without causing any major problems, but it’s best to fix things as soon as possible. Most products work best on surface temps between 40°F - 90°F, but check the instructions for the products you use, as each will have its own recommendations.
How To Do It
- Check for rot. Lightly tap on any suspect areas with a hammer. Any hollow sounds or areas that easily give way mean rot has taken residence. You will need to determine the extent of the rot and whether you can get away with remedial treatment or if partial- or full-log replacement is necessary. If it’s minor damage (say no more than an inch or two deep and no more than a few feet long), treat with an epoxy or wood hardener and move forward with finishing. Anything more extensive will require a professional inspection. Let Sashco help you Find a Contractor who can do an inspection for you and help you determine if any log replacement is necessary.
- Check for insect infestations. Exposed wood is an easy target for many insects because it’s easier to get through. Check for any insect infestations and treat them with appropriate insecticides. This may require bringing in a professional pest management company.
- Clean the logs. It’s good to do a power wash with CPR on the walls to provide a good, clean surface for re-staining that will be done shortly thereafter. Allow the wood to thoroughly dry before moving forward.
- Sand down the deteriorated areas of the log. Using an Osborn Brush, Buffy Pads or a 60- or 80-grit sand paper on a variable speed grinder, sand down the deteriorated upper curve of the logs, feathering into the lower curve so there’s not a defined line where the bad stain has been removed and the good stain in still intact. Be sure to blow off or rinse off any resulting sawdust before moving forward. Watch the demonstration videos - Partial Log Restoration - Part I, Using CPR & Power Washing and Partial Log Restoration - Part II, After Power Washing
- Apply 1 coat of stain to the newly bare wood. Using a quality, flag-tipped paint brush, apply one very heavy drench coat of stain to the wood you sanded down. Be sure to feather into the good stain so there’s no defined line between the fresh stain and the stain that remains on the logs. Watch the demonstration video - Partial Log Restoration - Part III - 1st Coat of Stain
- Apply a 2nd coat of stain to the entire area. Using a paint sprayer, apply one very heavy drench coat of stain to the entire wall area to blend the new stain and the existing stain. If appropriate, finish by applying the top coat. Watch the demonstration video - Partial Log Restoration - Part IV - 2nd Coat of Stain
- Apply caulking and / or chinking. Any crack that is 1/4" or more wide, especially on the upper curve, should be sealed. Insert appropriate size backer rod and apply caulk (such as Log Builder or Conceal) over top. Any large joints – those 2” and wider – should be sealed using chinking (such as Log Jam or Chinker’s Edge). Be sure to follow closely the application instructions for each product to ensure the best results.
- Maintain your home! Routine inspections (link to first pic above) and regular maintenance will prolong the life of your log home, saving you time and money throughout the years.
HANDRAIL RE-FINISHING
If your handrails look like this, it’s time for some spot re-finishing and simple design modifications to help prolong the life of your railings.
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When To Do It
As soon as weather permits. Most products work best with surface temps between 40°F - 90°F, but check the instructions for the products you use, as each will have its own recommendations. Work out of direct, intense heat and sunlight. Spring and fall are ideal times to do this work.
How To Do It
- Check for rot. Lightly tap on any suspect areas with a hammer. Any hollow sounds or areas that easily give way mean rot has taken residence. You will need to determine the extent of the rot and whether you can get away with remedial treatment or if partial- or full-log replacement is necessary. If it’s minor damage (say no more than an inch or two deep and no more than a few feet long), treat with an epoxy or wood hardener and move forward with finishing. Anything more extensive will require a professional inspection. Let Sashco help you Find a Contractor around your area who can do an inspection for you and help you determine if any log replacement is necessary.
- Check for insect infestations. Exposed wood is an easy target for many insects because it’s easier to get through. Check for any insect infestations and treat them with appropriate insecticides. This may require bringing in a professional pest management company.
- Clean the railings. It’s good to do a power wash with CPR on the railing to provide a good, clean surface for re-staining. Allow the wood to thoroughly dry before moving forward.
- Sand down the deteriorated areas of the railings. Using an Osborn Brush, Buffy Pads or a 60- or 80-grit sand paper on a variable speed grinder, sand down the deteriorated areas of the railings, feathering into the good stain so there’s not a defined line where the bad stain has been removed and the good stain in still intact. Be sure to blow off or rinse off any resulting sawdust before moving forward.
- Drill weep holes. Dead-end spindles should have small holes drilled through to the bottom of the rail to allow moisture to escape (these are called “weep holes”). The lower end of smaller checks should also have a weep holes drilled in them for the same reason.
- Apply 1 coat of stain to the newly bare wood. Using a quality, flag-tipped paint brush, apply one very heavy drench coat of stain to the wood you sanded down. Be sure to feather into the good stain so there’s no defined line between the fresh stain and the stain that remains on the logs. Watch the demonstration video - Partial Log Restoration - Part III - 1st Coat of Stain
- Apply a 2nd coat of stain to the entire area. Using a paint sprayer, apply one very heavy drench coat of stain to the entire wall area to blend the new stain and the existing stain. If appropriate, finish by applying the top coat. Watch the demonstration video - Partial Log Restoration - Part IV - 2nd Coat of Stain and How to Stain Blasted Walls
- Apply caulking. Any crack that is 1/4" or more wide, especially on the upper curve, should be sealed. Insert appropriate size backer rod or Grip Strip and apply caulk (such as Log Builder or Conceal) over top. Be sure to follow closely the application instructions for each product to ensure the best results.
- Maintain your railings! Railings take the full force of any weather that comes your way, especially if they’re not under cover; therefore, maintenance will be required more often on them (as often as every 1-2 years). Routine inspections and regular maintenance will prolong the life of your railings, saving you time and money throughout the years.
INTERIOR SURFACE RE-FINISHING
If your interior logs look like this – the clear coat is crackled or looks like alligator skin – it’s time for some simple surface re-finishing. This is what happens when the clear coat is applied in temps that get too cold or in areas where cold air has “pooled” (like under the stairs or near exterior doors) and the product hasn’t cured correctly.
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When To Do It
Whenever temperatures in the home are above 60°F and will be for at least 2 to 3 days
How To Do It
- Buff the affected areas. Using Buffy Pads or 120-grit sand paper on a variable speed grinder, lightly sand down the affected area, feathering into surrounding areas so there’s no defined line. Be sure to blow off any resulting dust.
- Apply 1 coat of stain (if necessary). If a stain was applied under the clear coat, apply one coat to the bare wood, being sure to feather into surrounding areas so there is no defined line.
- Apply a 2nd coat of stain (if necessary). Apply a 2nd coat of stain to the entire area to help color blend, if necessary. Sometimes the 1st coat will do the trick. Only apply a 2nd coat if the color difference is noticeable.
- Apply 1 coat of the clear coat. Apply the clear coat (such as Symphony) – either over what has just been re-stained or on the bare wood.
- Apply a 2nd coat of the clear coat. Apply a 2nd coat on the entire area in order to get a uniform sheen on the wall between the buffed and un-buffed wood.
CRACKED OR SPLIT CHINKING / CAULKING
If your chinking or caulking looks like this – cracked down the middle but still holding on tightly to the logs themselves – it’s time for some easy surface repairs. This type of damage is usually due to abnormal movement, a joint that is too small, extreme temperature changes, or the lack of backer rod. In any case, the fix is relatively easy.
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When To Do It
Exterior: as soon as weather permits. Sealants that aren’t holding their seal can allow in moisture and insects. Most products work best on surface temps between 40°F - 90°F, but check the instructions for the products you use, as each will have its own recommendations.
Interior: whenever the temperature is above 60°F in the home for at least 2 to 3 days
How To Do It
NOTE: the following instructions only apply with products that bond well to themselves (which is true of all of Sashco’s products). If you’ve used silicone or any sort of siliconized product, it will most likely mean complete removal of the product and/or complete re-sealing. Contact Sashco’s customer service to discuss details of your particular circumstances.
- Check for rot. Lightly tap on any suspect areas with a hammer. Any hollow sounds or areas that easily give way mean rot has taken residence. You will need to determine the extent of the rot and whether you can get away with remedial treatment or if partial- or full-log replacement is necessary. If it’s minor damage (say no more than an inch or two deep and no more than a few feet long), treat with an epoxy or wood hardener and move forward with finishing. Anything more extensive will require a professional inspection. Let Sashco help you Find a Contractor who can do an inspection for you and help you determine if any log replacement is necessary.
- Check for insect infestations. Exposed wood underneath caulking or chinking is an easy target for many insects because it’s easier to get through. Check for any insect infestations and treat them with appropriate insecticides. This may require bringing in a professional pest management company.
- Insert backer rod. If it’s a large joint (1/2” or more wide) and a backer rod is not already present, it is a good idea to stuff some back into the joint. Simply stuff it in between the crack that has already been created and push back so it’s not creating a “bump” above the caulking or chinking line.
- Re-apply product. Apply more of the same product used over the crack and tool to ensure a good bond with the current product.
CHINKING OR CAULKING BLISTERS
If your chinking or caulking has blisters, it’s time for an easy pop-and-fill. Blisters are usually due to vapor or gas somewhere behind the chinking (either in the wood itself or, on the rare occasion, the backer rod) trying to escape. It can also be the result of applying the product in direct, intense sunlight and heat. The fix is easy.
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When To Do It
Exterior: as soon as weather permits. Sealants that aren’t holding their seal can allow in moisture and insects. Most products work best on surface temps between 40°F - 90°F, but check the instructions for the products you use, as each will have its own recommendations.
Interior: whenever the temperature is above 60°F in the home for at least 2 to 3 days
How To Do It
CHINKING OR CAULKING ADHESIVE FAILURE
If your chinking or caulking looks like this – pulling away from the edges in various areas –it will have to be removed and re-applied. Adhesive failure of a sealant can happen when there is abnormal log movement, a joint that’s too narrow, lack of a backer rod, or the products used are incompatible with one another. The repair will be different for each situation. Leaving it unrepaired allows for moisture, air and insect infiltration.
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When To Do It
Exterior: as soon as weather permits. Sealants that aren’t holding their seal can allow in moisture and insects. Most products work best on surface temps between 40°F - 90°F, but check the instructions for the products you use, as each will have its own recommendations.
Interior: whenever the temperature is above 60°F in the home for at least 2 to 3 days
How To Do It
- Determine the cause of the failure. Failing to determine the cause will lead to more of the same in the future, which means incurring more costs.
- If the stain you used underneath or over top of the sealant contained any waxes or non-drying oils, you most likely have product incompatibility issues. Contact Sashco’s customer service to determine the best course of action. This will vary from home to home based on the type of stain used, amount of time the stain has been on there, and the prep that was done prior to application of both the sealants and the stain.
- Find out if there was backer rod installed originally. If not, you will need to insert some. Go to #2 below.
- If the joint width is not at least 15% of the log diameter, you may need to widen the joint. Go to #2 below.
- If you’re still not sure of the cause, contact Sashco’s customer service to discuss your particular circumstances.
- Cut out the chinking or caulking. Any chinking or caulking that has failed adhesively will need to be cut out. Use a razor or Dremel® tool to remove the chinking.
- Ensure proper joint size. If the joint you’re sealing is a horizontal joint between log courses, width should be at least 15% of the log diameter. If you choose to maintain the smaller joint size for aesthetic purposes, be aware that more removal and re-application may be necessary until your logs come to their moisture equilibrium in their environment. Please note that this kind of failure is more likely to happen on smaller joints due to the amount of movement they undergo. (It is the total percent movement, not the overall movement, which ultimately determines the outcome. A ¼” wide joint that opens to ½” undergoes more movement as a percentage than a joint that goes from 1” to 1 ¼”.)
- Install backer rod or Grip Strip, if necessary. If a backer rod was not originally installed or the joint has widened and the backer rod present isn’t large enough anymore, insert the appropriate size for the current width of the joint.
- Re-apply chinking or caulking. Gun the product (such as Log Jam, Chinker’s Edge, Log Builder or Conceal) over the backer rod and tool to ensure a tight bond and a smooth bead.
OLD MORTAR CHINKING
If your chinking looks like this – old, mortar or mud type that’s starting to crumble or random materials stuffed in the joint – it’s time to clean out the joint and re-apply a synthetic chinking to provide lasting protection from air, moisture and insect infiltration.
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When To Do It
Exterior: as soon as weather permits. Sealants that aren’t holding their seal can allow in moisture and insects. Most products work best on surface temps between 40°F - 90°F, but check the instructions for the products you use, as each will have its own recommendations.
Interior: whenever the temperature is above 60°F in the home for at least 2 to 3 days
How To Do It
- Remove any compromised chinking. Any mortar that is crumbling and falling out should be removed. If it’s holding up, no need to remove it.
- Clean the joints and any remaining old chinking. Using a wood-friendly cleaner (like CPR), clean the joints to get rid of any mold, mildew and dust. Allow to thoroughly dry.
- Sand down the joints. Anywhere you plan on applying new synthetic chinking (like Log Jam or Chinker’s Edge), use Buffy Pads, a Dremel® tool or a 60- or 80-grit sand paper to sand down the edges of the joint to provide for good adhesion of the new chinking. Be sure to blow off any resulting dust.
- Insert backer rod, Grip Strip or apply packing tape. Wherever you removed the old mortar chinking, insert backer rod or Grip Strip. Tape over any remaining mortar chinking with clear packing tape (which acts as a bond breaker).
- Apply the new chinking. Gun the chinking (like Log Jam or Chinker’s Edge) over the backer rod / Grip Strip or old mortar according to directions and tool to ensure a tight bond to the wood.
For more information about Maintaining Your Log Home
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