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• Fall: check for any summer damage and winterize your home
• Spring: check for any winter damage and summerize your home

• Download Sashco’s Log Home Inspection Guide to use as a checklist.
• Draw a rough exterior wall plan of your home and note on the sketch each wall where maintenance is needed. Also note areas that may not need maintenance now but will need to be revisited at the next inspection.
• Take pictures. It can be hard to go back and find that crack or check the next time around. Also remember to include a point of reference, as many logs look alike.
• If you’re looking for a contractor, let Sashco help you find a contractor who can perform both the inspection and the maintenance for you.

• Find out where the moisture is coming from – moisture can come from a variety of sources, including any of the following locations:
• Splash back. If water is hitting a concrete sidewalk or rocks or shrubs or anything else close enough to the wood and splashing back, take corrective measures to direct moisture away from the logs.
• A tree or shrub too close to the wall. Cut shrubs back to give at least 3 feet of space between them and the logs. Try to keep tree branches at least 12 feet away from the logs.
• Insufficient eaves and overhangs. Consider extending these to a minimum of 2 feet. If yours are not this large and you can’t extend them, be sure to perform more regular maintenance on the walls below.
• Lack of gutters and downspouts. Just like conventional construction, log homes need gutters and downspouts to keep water off the walls.
• Still not sure where the moisture is coming from? Contact Sashco’s Customer Service to discuss your particular situation.
• Check for rot. Lightly tap on the bare areas of the logs with a hammer. Any hollow sounds or areas that easily give way mean rot has taken residence. You will need to determine the extent of the rot and whether you can get away with remedial treatment or if partial- or full-log replacement is necessary. If it’s minor damage (say no more than an inch or two deep and no more than a few feet long), treat with an epoxy or wood hardener and move forward with finishing. Anything more extensive will require a professional inspection. Let Sashco help you Find a Contractor around your area who can do an inspection for you and help you determine if any log replacement is necessary.
• Check for insect infestations. Wet wood is an easy target for many insects because it’s easier for them to get through. Check for any insect infestations and treat them with appropriate insecticides. This may require bringing in a professional pest management company.
• Blast the walls. You need to get down to original wood. Crushed Glass Media or Corn Cob Media blasting is the preferred method, especially if you have moisture-induced problems. Power washing with CPR can be done but may end up exacerbating the problems, even if done well. Watch the demonstration videos - Partial Log Restoration - Part I, Using CPR and Power Washing and Log Blasting Techniques with Corn Cob and Glass Media Before Staining
• Clean the walls, if necessary, then sand them. Blasting (as described above) will usually get rid of most mold and mildew. But sometimes a second cleaning with a wood-friendly cleaner like CPR is needed to get rid of any remaining mold and mildew. Allow the wood to thoroughly dry. Sanding or buffing (preferably with Osborn Brushes, Buffy Pads, or a 60- to 80-grit sand paper) will be necessary after cleaning is done and the walls are dry. Watch the demonstration videos - Optional Log Prep After Blasting Logs and Partial Log Restoration - Part II, After Power Washing
• Apply PeneTreat. This borate-based wood preservative will help prevent rot.
• Install Cobra Rods. These rods should be installed in logs that are unprotected or are exposed to large amounts of moisture. Refer to each product’s application instructions for proper installation.
• Apply a quality stain boosted with additional mildewcides. Sashco’s full line of stains can be boosted with Stay Clean I/E. The combination of the two products is deadly to surface mold and mildew. And Sashco’s stains are formulated with only the highest-quality raw materials, giving you the outstanding performance and longevity you expect out of your log home stain. Watch the demonstration videos - How to Stain Blasted Walls and How to Apply Capture Stain & Cascade Clear Coat to A Log Home
• Apply caulking and / or chinking. Any crack that is 1/4" or more wide, especially on the upper curve of the log, should be sealed. Insert appropriate size backer rod or Grip Strip and apply caulk (such as Log Builder or Conceal) over top. Any large joints – those 2" and wider – should be sealed using chinking (such as Log Jam or Chinker's Edge). Be sure to follow closely the application instructions for each product to ensure the best results.
• Maintain your home! Routine inspections and regular maintenance will prolong the life of your log home, saving you time and money throughout the years.

• Check for rot. Lightly tap on the bare areas of the logs with a hammer. Any hollow sounds or areas that easily give way mean rot has taken residence. You will need to determine the extent of the rot and whether you can get away with remedial treatment or if partial- or full-log replacement is necessary. If it’s minor damage (say no more than an inch or two deep and no more than a few feet long), treat with an epoxy or wood hardener and move forward with finishing. Anything more extensive will require a professional inspection. Let Sashco help you Find a Contractor around your area who can do an inspection for you and help you determine if any log replacement is necessary.
• Check for insect infestations. UV damaged wood is an easy target for many insects because it’s easier to get through. Check for any insect infestations and treat them with appropriate insecticides. This may require bringing in a professional pest management company.
• Blast the walls. You need to get down to original wood. Crushed Glass Media or Corn Cob Media blasting is the preferred method. Power washing with CPR can be effective if done correctly. Other options include hand sanding or grinding the walls down with Osborn Brushes or Buffy Pads. Watch the demonstration videos - Partial Log Restoration - Part I, Using CPR & Power Washing and Log Blasting Techniques with Corn Cob & Glass Media Before Staining
• Clean the walls, if necessary, then sand them. Blasting (as described above) will usually get rid of most mold and mildew. But sometimes a second cleaning with a wood-friendly cleaner like CPR is needed to get rid of any remaining mold and mildew. Allow the wood to thoroughly dry. Sanding or buffing (preferably with Osborn Brushes, Buffy Pads, or a 60- or 80-grit sand paper) will be necessary after cleaning is done and the walls are dry. Watch the demonstration videos - Optional Log Prep After Blasting Logs and Partial Log Restoration - Part II, After Power Washing
• Apply PeneTreat. This borate-based wood preservative will help prevent rot.
• Install Cobra Rods. These rods should be installed in logs that are unprotected or are susceptible to large amounts of moisture. Refer to each product’s application instructions proper installation information.
• Apply a quality stain. Sashco’s stains are formulated with only the highest-quality raw materials, giving you the outstanding performance and longevity you expect out of your log home stain. If you’re in a high-humidity area or your home has snow that sits on the logs for long periods of time, boost the stain with Stay Clean I/E, a surface mildewcide, to help further protect your stain and home. Watch the demonstration videos - How to Stain Blasted Walls and How to Apply Capture Stain & Cascade Clear Coat to A Log Home
• Apply caulking and / or chinking. Any crack that is 1/4" or more wide, especially on the upper curve, should be sealed. Insert appropriate size backer rod or Grip Strip and apply caulk (such as Log Builder or Conceal) over top. Any large joints – those 2” and wider – should be sealed using chinking (such as Log Jam or Chinker’s Edge). Be sure to follow closely the application instructions for each product to ensure the best results.
• Maintain your home! Routine inspections and regular maintenance will prolong the life of your log home, saving you time and money throughout the years.

• Check for rot. Lightly tap on the bare areas of the logs with a hammer. Any hollow sounds or areas that easily give way mean rot has taken residence. You will need to determine the extent of the rot and whether you can get away with remedial treatment or if partial- or full-log replacement is necessary. If it’s minor damage (say no more than an inch or two deep and no more than a few feet long), treat with an epoxy or wood hardener and move forward with finishing. Anything more extensive will require a professional inspection. Let Sashco help you Find a Contractor around your area who can do an inspection for you and help you determine if any log replacement is necessary.
• Check for insect infestations. UV damaged wood is an easy target for many insects because it’s easier to get through. Check for any insect infestations and treat them with appropriate insecticides. This may require bringing in a professional pest management company.
• Blast the walls. You need to get down to original wood. Crushed Glass Media or Corn Cob Media blasting is the preferred method. Power washing with CPR can be effective if done correctly. Other options include hand sanding or grinding the walls down with Osborn Brushes or Buffy Pads. Watch the demonstration videos - Partial Log Restoration - Part I, Using CPR & Power Washing and Log Blasting Techniques with Corn Cob & Glass Media Before Staining
• Apply PeneTreat. This borate-based wood preservative will help prevent rot.
• Install Cobra Rods. These rods should be installed in logs that are unprotected or are susceptible to large amounts of moisture. Refer to each product’s application instructions proper installation information.
• Apply a quality stain. Sashco’s stains are formulated with only the highest-quality raw materials, giving you the outstanding performance and longevity you expect out of your log home stain. If you’re in a high-humidity area or your home has snow that sits on the logs for long periods of time, boost the stain with Stay Clean I/E, a surface mildewcide, to help further protect your stain and home. Watch the demonstration videos - How to Stain Blasted Walls and How to Apply Capture Stain & Cascade Clear Coat to A Log Home
• Apply caulking and / or chinking. Any crack that is 1/4" or more wide, especially on the upper curve, should be sealed. Insert appropriate size backer rod and apply caulk (such as Log Builder or Conceal) over top. Any large joints – those 2” and wider – should be sealed using chinking (such as Log Jam or Chinker’s Edge). Be sure to follow closely the application instructions for each product to ensure the best results.
• Maintain your home! Routine inspections and regular maintenance will prolong the life of your log home, saving you time and money throughout the years.

• Check for rot. Lightly tap on any suspect areas with a hammer. Any hollow sounds or areas that easily give way mean rot has taken residence. You will need to determine the extent of the rot and whether you can get away with remedial treatment or if partial- or full-log replacement is necessary. If it’s minor damage (say no more than an inch or two deep and no more than a few feet long), treat with an epoxy or wood hardener and move forward with finishing. Anything more extensive will require a professional inspection. Let Sashco help you Find a Contractor who can do an inspection for you and help you determine if any log replacement is necessary.
• Check for insect infestations. Exposed wood is an easy target for many insects because it’s easier to get through. Check for any insect infestations and treat them with appropriate insecticides. This may require bringing in a professional pest management company.
• Clean the logs. It’s good to do a power wash with CPR on the walls to provide a good, clean surface for re-staining that will be done shortly thereafter. Allow the wood to thoroughly dry before moving forward.
• Sand down the deteriorated areas of the log. Using an Osborn Brush, Buffy Pads or a 60- or 80-grit sand paper on a variable speed grinder, sand down the deteriorated upper curve of the logs, feathering into the lower curve so there’s not a defined line where the bad stain has been removed and the good stain in still intact. Be sure to blow off or rinse off any resulting sawdust before moving forward. Watch the demonstration videos - Partial Log Restoration - Part I, Using CPR & Power Washing and Partial Log Restoration - Part II, After Power Washing
• Apply 1 coat of stain to the newly bare wood. Using a quality, flag-tipped paint brush, apply one very heavy drench coat of stain to the wood you sanded down. Be sure to feather into the good stain so there’s no defined line between the fresh stain and the stain that remains on the logs. Watch the demonstration video - Partial Log Restoration - Part III - 1st Coat of Stain
• Apply a 2nd coat of stain to the entire area. Using a paint sprayer, apply one very heavy drench coat of stain to the entire wall area to blend the new stain and the existing stain. If appropriate, finish by applying the top coat. Watch the demonstration video - Partial Log Restoration - Part IV - 2nd Coat of Stain
• Apply caulking and / or chinking. Any crack that is 1/4" or more wide, especially on the upper curve, should be sealed. Insert appropriate size backer rod and apply caulk (such as Log Builder or Conceal) over top. Any large joints – those 2” and wider – should be sealed using chinking (such as Log Jam or Chinker’s Edge). Be sure to follow closely the application instructions for each product to ensure the best results.
• Maintain your home! Routine inspections (link to first pic above) and regular maintenance will prolong the life of your log home, saving you time and money throughout the years.

• Check for rot. Lightly tap on any suspect areas with a hammer. Any hollow sounds or areas that easily give way mean rot has taken residence. You will need to determine the extent of the rot and whether you can get away with remedial treatment or if partial- or full-log replacement is necessary. If it’s minor damage (say no more than an inch or two deep and no more than a few feet long), treat with an epoxy or wood hardener and move forward with finishing. Anything more extensive will require a professional inspection. Let Sashco help you Find a Contractor around your area who can do an inspection for you and help you determine if any log replacement is necessary.
• Check for insect infestations. Exposed wood is an easy target for many insects because it’s easier to get through. Check for any insect infestations and treat them with appropriate insecticides. This may require bringing in a professional pest management company.
• Clean the railings. It’s good to do a power wash with CPR on the railing to provide a good, clean surface for re-staining. Allow the wood to thoroughly dry before moving forward.
• Sand down the deteriorated areas of the railings. Using an Osborn Brush, Buffy Pads or a 60- or 80-grit sand paper on a variable speed grinder, sand down the deteriorated areas of the railings, feathering into the good stain so there’s not a defined line where the bad stain has been removed and the good stain in still intact. Be sure to blow off or rinse off any resulting sawdust before moving forward.
• Drill weep holes. Dead-end spindles should have small holes drilled through to the bottom of the rail to allow moisture to escape (these are called “weep holes”). The lower end of smaller checks should also have a weep holes drilled in them for the same reason.
• Apply 1 coat of stain to the newly bare wood. Using a quality, flag-tipped paint brush, apply one very heavy drench coat of stain to the wood you sanded down. Be sure to feather into the good stain so there’s no defined line between the fresh stain and the stain that remains on the logs. Watch the demonstration video - Partial Log Restoration - Part III - 1st Coat of Stain
• Apply a 2nd coat of stain to the entire area. Using a paint sprayer, apply one very heavy drench coat of stain to the entire wall area to blend the new stain and the existing stain. If appropriate, finish by applying the top coat. Watch the demonstration video - Partial Log Restoration - Part IV - 2nd Coat of Stain and How to Stain Blasted Walls
• Apply caulking. Any crack that is 1/4" or more wide, especially on the upper curve, should be sealed. Insert appropriate size backer rod or Grip Strip and apply caulk (such as Log Builder or Conceal) over top. Be sure to follow closely the application instructions for each product to ensure the best results.
• Maintain your railings! Railings take the full force of any weather that comes your way, especially if they’re not under cover; therefore, maintenance will be required more often on them (as often as every 1-2 years). Routine inspections and regular maintenance will prolong the life of your railings, saving you time and money throughout the years.

• Buff the affected areas. Using Buffy Pads or 120-grit sand paper on a variable speed grinder, lightly sand down the affected area, feathering into surrounding areas so there’s no defined line. Be sure to blow off any resulting dust.
• Apply 1 coat of stain (if necessary). If a stain was applied under the clear coat, apply one coat to the bare wood, being sure to feather into surrounding areas so there is no defined line.
• Apply a 2nd coat of stain (if necessary). Apply a 2nd coat of stain to the entire area to help color blend, if necessary. Sometimes the 1st coat will do the trick. Only apply a 2nd coat if the color difference is noticeable.
• Apply 1 coat of the clear coat. Apply the clear coat (such as Symphony) – either over what has just been re-stained or on the bare wood.
• Apply a 2nd coat of the clear coat. Apply a 2nd coat on the entire area in order to get a uniform sheen on the wall between the buffed and un-buffed wood.

Exterior: as soon as weather permits. Sealants that aren’t holding their seal can allow in moisture and insects. Most products work best on surface temps between 40°F - 90°F, but check the instructions for the products you use, as each will have its own recommendations.

Interior: whenever the temperature is above 60°F in the home for at least 2 to 3 days.

• Check for rot. Lightly tap on any suspect areas with a hammer. Any hollow sounds or areas that easily give way mean rot has taken residence. You will need to determine the extent of the rot and whether you can get away with remedial treatment or if partial- or full-log replacement is necessary. If it’s minor damage (say no more than an inch or two deep and no more than a few feet long), treat with an epoxy or wood hardener and move forward with finishing. Anything more extensive will require a professional inspection. Let Sashco help you Find a Contractor who can do an inspection for you and help you determine if any log replacement is necessary.
• Check for insect infestations. Exposed wood underneath caulking or chinking is an easy target for many insects because it’s easier to get through. Check for any insect infestations and treat them with appropriate insecticides. This may require bringing in a professional pest management company.
• Insert backer rod. If it’s a large joint (1/2” or more wide) and a backer rod is not already present, it is a good idea to stuff some back into the joint. Simply stuff it in between the crack that has already been created and push back so it’s not creating a “bump” above the caulking or chinking line.
• Re-apply product. Apply more of the same product used over the crack and tool to ensure a good bond with the current product.

Exterior: as soon as weather permits. Sealants that aren’t holding their seal can allow in moisture and insects. Most products work best on surface temps between 40°F - 90°F, but check the instructions for the products you use, as each will have its own recommendations.

Interior: whenever the temperature is above 60°F in the home for at least 2 to 3 days.

• Determine the cause of the blisters. Any future chinking or caulking can blister again if the cause is not first eliminated.
• Check for any areas where moisture is getting in. If the wood is “wet” or there is an area where water is easily entering the wood, eliminate it.
• Check for any cracks in the backer rod. These can sometimes be an indicator of out-gassing. Tape over any easily accessible cracks with clear packing tape. (If not easy to get to, no big deal.)
• Be sure the chinking or caulking wasn’t applied in direct sunlight. If it was, be sure to avoid doing so during repairs. Direct sunlight can cause the surface to cure too quickly and result in more blisters.
• Pop the blister(s). Using a pin or something else pointy, pop any blisters as soon as possible to relieve the pressure and push them back into the rest of the material. This will result in a slightly concave appearance.
• Apply more chinking or caulking. Using the same product, apply a skim coat over the blister and tool to ensure a smooth look and a tight bond.

Read Sashco’s Blister Savvy technical bulletin for more detailed information.

Exterior: as soon as weather permits. Sealants that aren’t holding their seal can allow in moisture and insects. Most products work best on surface temps between 40°F - 90°F, but check the instructions for the products you use, as each will have its own recommendations.

Interior: whenever the temperature is above 60°F in the home for at least 2 to 3 days.

• Determine the cause of the failure. Failing to determine the cause will lead to more of the same in the future, which means incurring more costs.
• If the stain you used underneath or over top of the sealant contained any waxes or non-drying oils, you most likely have product incompatibility issues. Contact Sashco’s customer service to determine the best course of action. This will vary from home to home based on the type of stain used, amount of time the stain has been on there, and the prep that was done prior to application of both the sealants and the stain.
• Find out if there was backer rod installed originally. If not, you will need to insert some. Go to #2 below.
• If the joint width is not at least 15% of the log diameter, you may need to widen the joint. Go to #2 below.
• If you’re still not sure of the cause, contact Sashco’s customer service to discuss your particular circumstances.
• Cut out the chinking or caulking. Any chinking or caulking that has failed adhesively will need to be cut out. Use a razor or Dremel® tool to remove the chinking.
• Ensure proper joint size. If the joint you’re sealing is a horizontal joint between log courses, width should be at least 15% of the log diameter. If you choose to maintain the smaller joint size for aesthetic purposes, be aware that more removal and re-application may be necessary until your logs come to their moisture equilibrium in their environment. Please note that this kind of failure is more likely to happen on smaller joints due to the amount of movement they undergo. (It is the total percent movement, not the overall movement, which ultimately determines the outcome. A ¼” wide joint that opens to ½” undergoes more movement as a percentage than a joint that goes from 1” to 1 ¼”.)
• Install backer rod or Grip Strip, if necessary. If a backer rod was not originally installed or the joint has widened and the backer rod present isn’t large enough anymore, insert the appropriate size for the current width of the joint.
• Re-apply chinking or caulking. Gun the product (such as Log Jam, Chinker’s Edge, Log Builder or Conceal) over the backer rod and tool to ensure a tight bond and a smooth bead.

Exterior: as soon as weather permits. Sealants that aren’t holding their seal can allow in moisture and insects. Most products work best on surface temps between 40°F - 90°F, but check the instructions for the products you use, as each will have its own recommendations.

Interior: whenever the temperature is above 60°F in the home for at least 2 to 3 days.

• Remove any compromised chinking. Any mortar that is crumbling and falling out should be removed. If it’s holding up, no need to remove it.
• Clean the joints and any remaining old chinking. Using a wood-friendly cleaner (like CPR), clean the joints to get rid of any mold, mildew and dust. Allow to thoroughly dry.
• Sand down the joints. Anywhere you plan on applying new synthetic chinking (like Log Jam or Chinker’s Edge), use Buffy Pads, a Dremel® tool or a 60- or 80-grit sand paper to sand down the edges of the joint to provide for good adhesion of the new chinking. Be sure to blow off any resulting dust.
• Insert backer rod, Grip Strip or apply packing tape. Wherever you removed the old mortar chinking, insert backer rod or Grip Strip. Tape over any remaining mortar chinking with clear packing tape (which acts as a bond breaker).
• Apply the new chinking. Gun the chinking (like Log Jam or Chinker’s Edge) over the backer rod / Grip Strip or old mortar according to directions and tool to ensure a tight bond to the wood.